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- Mar 8, 2006
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2930 and 31 are pretty much the same except one auto switches and has an OSD.
Does anyone know if you can remove the blast city speakers without removing the monitor?
Pain in the ass I’m sureI’ve done it, it’s a tight fit but doable.
I've been trying to figure out why my Blast City has a blurry screen after powering up. I've tried a NANAO 2930 monitor and MS-9 monitor with similar results. I thought it might be the harness connections at the I/O board, but I swapped in a spare harness with the same results. I don't have a spare I/O board so I can't verify if that is it. I thought maybe those old caps on there are dried out. I tried swapping them out, but I have no idea what kind of solder Sega used, but the board is an absolute pain to desolder the caps from. I had to pull the caps off and desolder the legs. Unfortunately it left solder behind in the holes and the solder doesn't want to come out for the new caps to go in. Could use some ideas and now looking for a replacement I/O board.
Sorry for taking up this thread with my chassis issue, but are these three solder points underneath the flyback supposed to be unsoldered?
There’s no pad for them underneath but I can’t find any other similar examples of pins just going through the board like that.
I've been trying to figure out why my Blast City has a blurry screen after powering up. I've tried a NANAO 2930 monitor and MS-9 monitor with similar results. I thought it might be the harness connections at the I/O board, but I swapped in a spare harness with the same results. I don't have a spare I/O board so I can't verify if that is it. I thought maybe those old caps on there are dried out. I tried swapping them out, but I have no idea what kind of solder Sega used, but the board is an absolute pain to desolder the caps from. I had to pull the caps off and desolder the legs. Unfortunately it left solder behind in the holes and the solder doesn't want to come out for the new caps to go in. Could use some ideas and now looking for a replacement I/O board.
I’ve reseated the connector with no change. The absence of red is in both 15khz and VGA mode.
I wonder if I could unseat the connector, run a wire from the blue output on the vga pcb to the red input on the chassis? Would that turn everything that’s supposed to be red to blue?
That might determine if it’s a wiring issue possibly
Do a continuity test from the neckboard with your multimeter to see if there is an issue with the connection
So I send the 2930 chassis back to the vendor and it now runs. It took a while, but it actually comes on and displays all the colors.
It is quite dim though. I’ve done the standard adjustments to contrast, screen and brightness. Brightness is maxed out and contrast is up there.
I’ve verified the monitor dips are correct, and the 31khz vga cable is disconnected.
Is there another pot I maybe should be messing with?
Did they replace the flyback?
So I send the 2930 chassis back to the vendor and it now runs. It took a while, but it actually comes on and displays all the colors.
It is quite dim though. I’ve done the standard adjustments to contrast, screen and brightness. Brightness is maxed out and contrast is up there.
I’ve verified the monitor dips are correct, and the 31khz vga cable is disconnected.
Is there another pot I maybe should be messing with?
The tube does have a 2930 sticker on it, so I may be in luck on that.
It does look like some caps changed at least. Is there a general guide that people use to get their monitors back up after repairs?
I’m reading about B+ voltage adjustments, but I’d need to know where to measure that.
The majority of chassis I’ve gotten or capped myself will need adjustments after fresh caps. One of the things you’ll have to do is adjust the flyback. There are two pots on there for brightness and focus.