Favorite Joystick to Play With

Electric Grave

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Marty, I'll check the PO BOX tomorrow. Thanks for the generosity.

If you make a mod of your old arcade stick or a cheaper stick, you also can change the top case if you only want have 4 buttons, you can make a new top cover or you can just put plugs.
Tell me about changing the top for one of those sticks like you said. Plugs are ok but still not ideal. I got new CPs for the top for my Hori T5 sticks and my MC SFIV sticks but I didn't know they make tops for the Mayflash sticks?
 
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Xian Xi

JammaNationX,
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Marty, I am extremely proud of you for doing this yourself. You also do such clean work for someone who wasn't comfortable doing this. Keep up the good work dude. I'm immensely impressed.
 

PSICODROMO

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Tell me about changing the top for one of those sticks like you said. Plugs are ok but still not ideal. I got new CPs for the top for my Hori T5 sticks and my MC SFIV sticks but I didn't know they make tops for the Mayflash sticks?

Make a new top plate with plexiglass or metallic plate, and drill new holes for the buttons where you want. Is a easy job and not to much expensive.
 

MCF 76

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Thank you James, I try to take my time and do the best I can. You, EG & mjmjr25 helped me a ton on these and I appreciate it. They are almost ready to come your way my friend. :cool:


Marty, I am extremely proud of you for doing this yourself. You also do such clean work for someone who wasn't comfortable doing this. Keep up the good work dude. I'm immensely impressed.
 

Electric Grave

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Got the goods Marty, thanks again for your generosity.


Make a new top plate with plexiglass or metallic plate, and drill new holes for the buttons where you want. Is a easy job and not to much expensive.

New metal plate, not an easy task at all, so you really don't know what you are talking about in this subject then, glad you made that clear. Keep to yourself about projects you know nothing about man, you're just derailing and misleading.
 
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PSICODROMO

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New metal plate, not an easy task at all, so you really don't know what you are talking about in this subject then, glad you made that clear. Keep to yourself about projects you know nothing about man, you're just derailing and misleading.

you only need cutter and drill tools and some bolts, then can drill the new holes where you want, remove the old stick plate but leave some of it in the outline, and then screw the new base plate (plexiglass, metallic, wood...) on it. Easy joob men! I did it in some of this sticks before an is not so much complicated... I don't have any photo of this sticks because was sold few years ago.
 

Electric Grave

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Cutting a metal plate to match a mayflash stick perfect isn't easy now let alone make a plate for it out of wood. I don't know what you are on but it sucks you can't show it 'cause I don't believe you.
 

PSICODROMO

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Use your imagination ElectricGrave make some things are more easy than you think. If I had a photo of my old stick no doubt that I can show it, but it was sold a few years ago.
 

Dinodoedoe

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With this insert plate you should be able mount your DB15 connector anywhere, especially if you are using a DB15 breakout PCB. I was thinking about going this route.
 

MCF 76

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With this insert plate you should be able mount your DB15 connector anywhere, especially if you are using a DB15 breakout PCB. I was thinking about going this route.

That is pretty cool but, I wanted mine down very low almost to the bottom. And since that area on back has such a steep angle it wouldn't have worked for me anyway. The way I wanted to do mine is about the only way you could mount it there in that spot imo.

That is a cool piece though, would save a lot of time from having to cut the plastic out perfect thanks for sharing that. If I build more later I would be interested in maybe getting these.
 
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SmokeMonster

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With this insert plate you should be able mount your DB15 connector anywhere, especially if you are using a DB15 breakout PCB. I was thinking about going this route.
That is a great mount, and would be really useful for Superguns and CMVS. If only their shipping wasn't so high I'd grab a few. Does anyone know if other vendors carry these?
 

Dinodoedoe

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That is pretty cool but, I wanted mine down very low almost to the bottom. And since that area on back has such a steep angle it wouldn't have worked for me anyway. The way I wanted to do mine is about the only way you could mount it there in that spot imo.

That is a cool piece though, would save a lot of time from having to cut the plastic out perfect thanks for sharing that. If I build more later I would be interested in maybe getting these.

Okay, after playing around with this casing, I see what you mean. I might have to go with your route with the low connector and build a separate bracket to mount it into the case.

So far I have the joystick mounted and I recessed the four bolts with my uni-bit. I'm not sure if I would want to do an overlay on this stick. Installed 24mm buttons in the back. Sadly, I need to order a new uni-bit because mine current one is only 29mm wide. So I'm on hold until the new one arrives this weekend. :annoyed:

All in all, this is a sweet case. Thanks for the heads up and keep up with your awesome custom joystick.

IMG_9142.JPG
 
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MCF 76

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Okay, after playing around with this casing, I see what you mean. I might have to go with your route with the low connector and build a separate bracket to mount it into the case.

So far I have the joystick mounted and I recessed the four bolts with my uni-bit. I'm not sure if I would want to do an overlay on this stick. Installed 24mm buttons in the back. Sadly, I need to order a new uni-bit because mine current one is only 29mm wide. So I'm on hold until the new one arrives this weekend. :annoyed:

All in all, this is a sweet case. Thanks for the heads up and keep up with your awesome custom joystick.

View attachment 25852

Looking good bro,

Let me suggest something to ya.

Here's what I did I bought a 7/8" hole saw for the 24mm buttons and a 1 1/8" for the 30mm buttons. Then used long wrench sockets wrapped with 80 grit sandpaper to make the hole to the EXACT size of the buttons. Start with a socket thats wrapped tight with the paper that will barely fit in the hole. I just kept turning/spinning the socket, then all you do is just keep going up in bigger diameter of sockets until the buttons fits perfect. Its super easy and looks clean as hell when your done. It sounds like a lot of work but it only took me like 10 mins to do 4 of the 30 mm buttons on one stick. You should do that method and it will save you monies from buying new bits, plus the buttons will have zero slack once installed. ;)

Here's a pic below of when I was sanding the holes with the sockets in the method I mentioned above. Look how smooth they turned out and the good thing about doing this is you can get the holes the EXACT size. All you half to do if the button is tight is just make the piece of sandpaper a little longer to wrap around the socket more. Works like a champ.

 
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opt2not

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Wow, these cases are nice! I've been thinking about putting together a small-form stick, one that is easier to travel with than my current ones.
I might look into getting one of these, thanks for sharing!
 

Dinodoedoe

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Looking good bro,

Let me suggest something to ya.

Here's what I did I bought a 7/8" hole saw for the 24mm buttons and a 1 1/8" for the 30mm buttons. Then used long wrench sockets wrapped with 80 grit sandpaper to make the hole to the EXACT size of the buttons. Start with a socket thats wrapped tight with the paper that will barely fit in the hole. I just kept turning/spinning the socket, then all you do is just keep going up in bigger diameter of sockets until the buttons fits perfect. Its super easy and looks clean as hell when your done. It sounds like a lot of work but it only took me like 10 mins to do 4 of the 30 mm buttons on one stick. You should do that method and it will save you monies from buying new bits, plus the buttons will have zero slack once installed. ;)

Here's a pic below of when I was sanding the holes with the sockets in the method I mentioned above. Look how smooth they turned out and the good thing about doing this is you can get the holes the EXACT size. All you half to do if the button is tight is just make the piece of sandpaper a little longer to wrap around the socket more. Works like a champ.



That's good to know. I already ordered a larger uni-bit on Amazon for $12. But I will keep that in mind.
 

Electric Grave

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Use your imagination ElectricGrave make some things are more easy than you think. If I had a photo of my old stick no doubt that I can show it, but it was sold a few years ago.
Oh get off already. You probably just made a hack job and here you are bragging about it. Show the skills or gtfo.
 

Electric Grave

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Callate ya baboso, estas hablando mierda sin saber un culo.

Edit: If you really know anything and have anything to contribute then spill the beans, just preaching that you can do it better and cheaper ain't enough, so either put up or STFU. You're just making up shit as you go, you already did the same thing on another thread, wish I could remember which one it is so I could link it. Terrible member.
 
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PSICODROMO

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un poco de respeto, que te crees que porque estas registrado desde 2004 tienes derecho menospreciar los comentarios de los otros foreros? Todos sabemos quien es la babosa que hay en esete foro, Tú!

Translation: a little respect, do you think that because you are registered since 2004 have the right to disparage the coments of the other forum members? All we know who is the slug that there in this forum, You!
 

opt2not

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You are not entitled to respect just by registering. Respect is earned, not given away freely.

You came here suggesting an easy alternative, but you fail at showing examples. if you can't support your claims with proof, then no one will even shit about what you say. Period. if you can't show that your suggestions are legit then you're just here to troll.

Put up, or STFU.
 

Electric Grave

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un poco de respeto, que te crees que porque estas registrado desde 2004 tienes derecho menospreciar los comentarios de los otros foreros? Todos sabemos quien es la babosa que hay en esete foro, Tú!

Translation: a little respect, do you think that because you are registered since 2004 have the right to disparage the comments of the other forum members? All we know who is the slug that there in this forum, You!
Everyone here says whatever they want about any given thing, get off the high horse. You could at the very least explain this "better alternative" in depth since you insisted on smearing your POV, instead you acted condescending and were vague with your response, thus my retaliation. If you don't have any pics, no big deal, back up your claim with a decent explanation, I mean you can "use your imagination", right? When you decided to come in this thread and make it a point to demean other's work with your "better idea", be prepared to be put into question, if you can't take the heat then simply go away.

Me creo lo que se me de la gran puta gana, me importa un reverendo culo fechas de poca importancia, estas suponiendo maricadas que no tienen nada que ver con el tema en si. Deja de andar preguntando por respeto como si fuera autoritario.
 

MCF 76

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Got some more done on the sticks today. My DB-15's came in yesterday. This part of the mod took more time to do than the rest combined. :oh_no: Major pain in the ass to say the least. But it did turn out looking pretty good. My OCD started kicking in on the pastic brackets I made. I ended up filling them down more all the way around. It just looked sloppy to me.

Cutting out X4 DB-15 holes isn't very much fun.







This pic I made some 1/16" aluminum flat hold down brackets. To keep the plastic from moving. The front plastic tab was just too close to the DB to extend the aluminum up there.



I guess it was worth the trouble in the end. Because at least I didn't half to drill more holes into the enclosure for the DB's two bolt holes.



 
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Electric Grave

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Wow Marty, all that work is paying off though, it looks pro.
 
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