Naomi Universal/Net City Club

[codecrank]

Jvs-pac doesn't support mapping, but 1p start plus b4 sets an "unsupported" mapping that avoids keys like Alt. Works well for typex and such.

yeah, that's what I was trying to avoid, accidental CTRL+ALT+.... still I have all my emulators, autohotkey, and hyperspin mapped a certain way. fuck that I'll just go with the ipac.

 

[NGCDFreak]

Forget what I posted .

 

[cornerstone]

Does anyone know which fuses I need for the NNC toshiba monitor and where to get them? I count 3 of them.

I stupidly had my NNC plugged into the wall without any surge protection. It sounded like a short and the cab plays blind now, but with a constant "click click" like it's switching resolutions.

The fuses don't look blown, but I might as well start here.

 

[Minigoat_king]

I am also part of this club! Finally! Net City all the way.

 

[Westcb]

Does anyone know which fuses I need for the NNC toshiba monitor and where to get them? I count 3 of them.



I stupidly had my NNC plugged into the wall without any surge protection. It sounded like a short and the cab plays blind now, but with a constant "click click" like it's switching resolutions.



The fuses don't look blown, but I might as well start here.

I'm no expert, but if the fuse was blown then no electricity would be getting to the chassis and you wouldn't hear any clicks. Do you have a multimeter? You can just set it to continuity and it will read 1 or 0 and you know of its a bad fuse or not.

 

[BanishingFlatsAC]

The clicking is caused by the Monitors High Voltage failsafe. It's shutting down the monitor to prevent further damage. I doubt it's a fuse tbh.

 

[cornerstone]

Yeah you're probably right.

Does anyone know if the sync selector could blow out like that? I was also moving the cab beforehand, so I could have fucked up some other part of it. I don't see any neck glow.

EDIT: Just saw the last post. So that could basically mean that some cap or another part was blown, and it's being fed too much voltage?

 

[BanishingFlatsAC]

Yeah you're probably right.

Does anyone know if the sync selector could blow out like that? I was also moving the cab beforehand, so I could have fucked up some other part of it. I don't see any neck glow.

EDIT: Just saw the last post. So that could basically mean that some cap or another part was blown, and it's being fed too much voltage?

Yeah a component on the chassis, neck board, or flyback has gone bad.

 

[cornerstone]

Yeah a component on the chassis, neck board, or flyback has gone bad.

Would it be possible, with no neck glow, that there is an issue with the power supply instead?

 

[300wins]

Would it be possible, with no neck glow, that there is an issue with the power supply instead?

If you hear sound out of your games and everything lights up, then no, it's not the power supply.

 

[cornerstone]

Damn.

Anyone know where to find a map and listing of the caps on this chassis?

Edit:

I've found some info... in french. http://www.neo-arcadia.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=48717
Google Translate https://translate.google.com/translate?sl=auto&tl=en&js=y&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.neo-arcadia.com%2Fforum%2Fviewtopic.php%3Ft%3D48717&edit-text=&act=url

Would I start my cap kid adventure by replacing all of these? Or just some crucial ones? None of mine look particularly busted or leaky.

Should I even mess around with the High Voltage Adjust?

{This pic is reference. Not my board}

Capkit:

Neck Board:
C233 33µF 200V 105°
C225 47µF 16V 105°

Platine:
C436 2.2µF 50V 105°
C440 2.2µF 50V 105°
C215 2.2µF 50V 105°
C218 2.2µF 50V 105°
C221 2.2µF 50V 105°
C465 3.3µF 100V 105°
C468 4.7µF 50V 105°
C477 10µF 16V 105°
C401 10µF 16V 105°
C301 10µF 16V 105°
C428 10µF 16V 105°
C429 10µF 16V 105°
C432 10µF 16V 105°
C433 10µF 16V 105°
CA01 10µF 16V 105°
CA04 10µF 16V 105°
C826 10µF 16V 105°
C210 10µF 16V 105°
C464 22µF 50V 105°
C431 33µF 16V 105°
CA07 33µF 16V 105°
CA06 33µF 16V 105°
C424 47µF 16V 105°
C402 100µF 10V 105°
C203 100µF 10V 105°
C202 100µF 10V 105°
C201 100µF 10V 105°
C466 100µF 16V 105°
C474 100µF 16V 105°
C820 100µF 16V 105°
C236 100µF 16V 105°
C237 100µF 16V 105°
C238 100µF 16V 105°
C213 100µF 16V 105°
C824 100µF 25V 105°
C415 100µF 200V 105°
C809 220µF 35V 105°
C306 220µF 35V 105°
C812 220µF 200V 105°
C463 220µF 200V 105°
C445 330µF 16V 105°
C304 470µF 50V 105°
C442 1000µF 16V 105°
C430 1000µF 25V 105°
C805 1000µF 250V 105°
C816 2200µF 16V 105°
C814 2200µF 25V 105°
C815 4700µF 25V 105°
C476 10µF 16V 105° NON POLARISE

 

[300wins]

If you're going to replace caps, might as well do all of them for piece of mind. At least that's how I feel.

 

[cornerstone]

Huh, it’s been a while.

Anyway, does anyone know how to get to the extended menu on the NNC? Is it specifically just a physical tool that operators had?

Here’s my problem:
I finally found a working chassis, thanks to some help from here. But it’s got the red gain maxed out.

At least, I think that’s the issue. I’ve turned the SCREEN adjustment all the way down and the brightness all the way up, then vice versa, but it seems like this red won’t go away. There aren’t many options on the chassis and the remote board doesn’t really go outside of geometry.

I also hit the reset button on the menu, which makes me think it’s not just a color menu option.

 

[radiantsvgun]

Huh, it’s been a while.

Anyway, does anyone know how to get to the extended menu on the NNC? Is it specifically just a physical tool that operators had?

Here’s my problem:
I finally found a working chassis, thanks to some help from here. But it’s got the red gain maxed out.

At least, I think that’s the issue. I’ve turned the SCREEN adjustment all the way down and the brightness all the way up, then vice versa, but it seems like this red won’t go away. There aren’t many options on the chassis and the remote board doesn’t really go outside of geometry.

I also hit the reset button on the menu, which makes me think it’s not just a color menu option.

https://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/w/Toshiba_PF_D29C051

That is an odd problem.

 

[kuze]

Does it do that with all PCBs?

 

[cornerstone]

Yes, it has that red tint on all PCBs.

The new chassis is from Yaton, so I’ve unplugged it and gave it a bath. I’ll be able to try it again later tonight.

I’m afraid it could be the monitor itself. The previous chassis had an issue where it couldn’t sync and it made a clicking noise all the time. Hopefully that didn’t zap some part of the tube, if that’s possible.

 

[radiantsvgun]

Yes, it has that red tint on all PCBs.

The new chassis is from Yaton, so I’ve unplugged it and gave it a bath. I’ll be able to try it again later tonight.

I’m afraid it could be the monitor itself. The previous chassis had an issue where it couldn’t sync and it made a clicking noise all the time. Hopefully that didn’t zap some part of the tube, if that’s possible.

I had that problem on my NNC in 31K. 300wins showed me there is a switch on the chassis you need to set to the middle. See if you can find that.

 

[cornerstone]

So I started it up with the switch flipped to the middle, and the red is gone. But it seems to be completely gone and replaced by a green hue.

Hmmm

Edit: Back to red

 

[djjimmyjames]

Still in the warehouse in Japan and will hopefully be on its way in Oct, Nov.

 

[BanishingFlatsAC]

Still in the warehouse in Japan and will hopefully be on its way in Oct, Nov.

View attachment 51380View attachment 51381

Gamesaru?

 

[djjimmyjames]

ya how did you know?

 

[BanishingFlatsAC]

ya how did you know?

It's too clean of a cab to be the other resellers. Kenchan has nice stuff,. Everyone else gets their stuff from HK too.

 

[djjimmyjames]

20k on the counter and a new manual inside. Dirty af but what does one expect
Cleaned it and put new buttons in and a new stick.

Just got the noir also

 

[kuze]

Seeing up a FrancoB loom on my new NNC, it seems the 3pin connections in the CP area are for credits and the toggle switch selects between output to JVS controls or the JAMMA loom?

Can anyone confirm how this is wired appropriately?

 

[kuze]

Nevermind, figured it out by just giving it a shot. The toggle switch is for credits and selects between JAMMA or JVS output.