Been restoring lots of stuff last few years. Ive been a modeler for many years also use to restore & build hot rods, dirt track race car aluminum bodies hell everything lots of metal fabrication. Thought be a cool thread to list what you have restored lately and the methods and tools, chemicals, glues and paints that you get great results with. Like to learn new techniques and share ideas.
Since I got back into AES against my better judgement everybody knows how shit the old AES soft cases can be. Most can be restored if it is just the normal separated corner flaps, cracked trays and even yellowing of the clear.
Here is what I do and use to repair the broken flaps. I use thin set superglue usually get the hobby grade they sell and Hobby Lobby. If the flap is completely loose I tack the top and middle with the glue using a toothpick. I do those two spots first to make sure I can get the crack to line up perfectly as I can, after I get it right then I apply a good bit of glue to a toothpick then trace it down the seam then thin set will follow you lead and flow right in to the seam crack. After it dries the super glue always leave the whit fog to everything. I keep an old toothbrush to lightly scrub across the glue area this will remove most of the oxidation wait 24 hours before using a brush on the glue area.
Next to touch up the glue line with some paint, I found the perfect paint that will match the black vinyl and after some time and patience it is almost unnoticeable. You can get this paint marker for Hobby Lobby aswell. "Testors" enamel Flat Black #2549 I use a very small paint detail brush to apply it. You need to thin it down a bit because this paint is very thick straight out of the marker. I keep water bottle caps to use as my container for the paint. I dip my brush in some thinner then mix what I ejected from the marker. You want it thinned just enough to where it will flow out of the brush very easily. After you apply it to the spot let dry over night. When I dries the paint is very flat but this can be blended with a Q-tip very slowly to remove the flat finish. After you rub it for a few seconds you will notice it blends in perfectly with the color of the black vinyl.
I also fixed last week an AES soft case that had the clear spine heavily yellowed. I was very nervous to try the "retro brite" technique but as it was I wasn't going to use it anyways like it was so no loss really if it damaged it. I watched several videos to see what people used to achieve this. I settled on "Clairol" professional pure white creme developer 40 vol. It's super concentrated peroxide and it worked like a champ. Now prepping the case so I didn't get the creme on the inside where the insert went was tricky.
I used some normal printing paper you want to use something white so it get maximum reflection to help the peroxide along. I wrapped the printer paper in clear saran wrap so the creme would not soak into the paper. I used two sheets of paper to make the size on and insert left the top longer. Then wrapped the rest of the case in white paper so the sun didn't get the black case super hot and possibly damage it. This has to be left out in sun for at least 6-8 hours. After you get the case papered off apply the peroxide creme to the area yellowed. Don't put some much it running off just enough to cover all the yellowing. Next you half to wrap the whole case now with the saran wrap so the air dosent dry out the creme. Sit out where it get direct sun and rotate every hour or two.
After the 6-8hours carefully remove all paper, also very important I forgot to mention do not put any tape on the clear when masking off. The tape will warp and leave an impression where it was. Wipe off creme very carefully not getting on rest of black vinyl. The creame ended up getting under the clear some it's just unavoidable because of it sweating being out in the sun. So I wipped all off with damp paper towel. I had to rinse under clear with water but I'd very fast just to make sure all chemicals was removed. Then I dried it off real good then opened case fully and sit in front of a fan for 24 hours to let air get under clear where insert goes.
Lot of work but it completely removed all yellowing so it was well worth it.
Since I got back into AES against my better judgement everybody knows how shit the old AES soft cases can be. Most can be restored if it is just the normal separated corner flaps, cracked trays and even yellowing of the clear.
Here is what I do and use to repair the broken flaps. I use thin set superglue usually get the hobby grade they sell and Hobby Lobby. If the flap is completely loose I tack the top and middle with the glue using a toothpick. I do those two spots first to make sure I can get the crack to line up perfectly as I can, after I get it right then I apply a good bit of glue to a toothpick then trace it down the seam then thin set will follow you lead and flow right in to the seam crack. After it dries the super glue always leave the whit fog to everything. I keep an old toothbrush to lightly scrub across the glue area this will remove most of the oxidation wait 24 hours before using a brush on the glue area.
Next to touch up the glue line with some paint, I found the perfect paint that will match the black vinyl and after some time and patience it is almost unnoticeable. You can get this paint marker for Hobby Lobby aswell. "Testors" enamel Flat Black #2549 I use a very small paint detail brush to apply it. You need to thin it down a bit because this paint is very thick straight out of the marker. I keep water bottle caps to use as my container for the paint. I dip my brush in some thinner then mix what I ejected from the marker. You want it thinned just enough to where it will flow out of the brush very easily. After you apply it to the spot let dry over night. When I dries the paint is very flat but this can be blended with a Q-tip very slowly to remove the flat finish. After you rub it for a few seconds you will notice it blends in perfectly with the color of the black vinyl.
I also fixed last week an AES soft case that had the clear spine heavily yellowed. I was very nervous to try the "retro brite" technique but as it was I wasn't going to use it anyways like it was so no loss really if it damaged it. I watched several videos to see what people used to achieve this. I settled on "Clairol" professional pure white creme developer 40 vol. It's super concentrated peroxide and it worked like a champ. Now prepping the case so I didn't get the creme on the inside where the insert went was tricky.
I used some normal printing paper you want to use something white so it get maximum reflection to help the peroxide along. I wrapped the printer paper in clear saran wrap so the creme would not soak into the paper. I used two sheets of paper to make the size on and insert left the top longer. Then wrapped the rest of the case in white paper so the sun didn't get the black case super hot and possibly damage it. This has to be left out in sun for at least 6-8 hours. After you get the case papered off apply the peroxide creme to the area yellowed. Don't put some much it running off just enough to cover all the yellowing. Next you half to wrap the whole case now with the saran wrap so the air dosent dry out the creme. Sit out where it get direct sun and rotate every hour or two.
After the 6-8hours carefully remove all paper, also very important I forgot to mention do not put any tape on the clear when masking off. The tape will warp and leave an impression where it was. Wipe off creme very carefully not getting on rest of black vinyl. The creame ended up getting under the clear some it's just unavoidable because of it sweating being out in the sun. So I wipped all off with damp paper towel. I had to rinse under clear with water but I'd very fast just to make sure all chemicals was removed. Then I dried it off real good then opened case fully and sit in front of a fan for 24 hours to let air get under clear where insert goes.
Lot of work but it completely removed all yellowing so it was well worth it.