WG K7000 arcade monitor Capkit help!!

[kingau]

I have a WG K7000 arcade monitor, the h-size does not work and the colors were all dull.
so I install a cap kit to fix it.

now every thing looks great but I still have no h-size and now the top half of the monitor does not look right.

here are pic to what I'm talking about.

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thanks

 

[Dion]

K7000 are notorious for this squiggle at the top with certain pcbs. Did you replace all of the caps in the kit? Try adjusting the Vert. Sync. Also, try adjusting the 50/60 hz pot. Its right behind the pots on the edge.

 

[kingau]

I replaced all the caps and I try adjusting the 50/60 hz pot, but its still there.

I never knew that K7000 are notorious for squiggle on the top of the screen.

I thinking of getting a new fly back. maybe that might help?

 

[Spike Spiegel]

Since the horizontal size doesn't work, have you thought about replacing that pot? Is it a pot adjustment or is it a coil adjustment? I doubt an error like this is fixed with caps being replaced, sadly.

I had a U5000 (fucking pieces of shit) that did this, and I could manipulate it by moving the screen right and left. Have you done that? What happens when you shift the screen left to right? Does that fix it a bit? If it does, then there is a jumper on the board that has one wire going to it. Should be L R C (left right center). If adjusting the pic to the left or right fixes that top, but then off sets the pic on the screen, you can fix the screen position by changing that jumper.

 

[kingau]

yes when I move it from left to right it fixes A bit but not a lot.

yes I know that wire it's a black one on under the board, can I use any wire to replace it ?

I'm going to replace the coil adjustment, it looks fine but it won't do a thing.

 

[Spike Spiegel]

Black under the board? I'm not sure we're talking about the same wire. There's a jumper wire, you just pull it out from one side and put it in one of the other spots. When I did this on a monitor (from Center to Right and then Left) I got the same issues you had. Just an idea. It's on the top side of the board, in the horizontal section (near your width coil and sort of close to the flyback). Not wires under the board. Those are usually fixes from traces getting torn up by somebody else.

If you width coil does NOTHING, that's not a good sign. Replacing that is important right from the get go. I like the last WG monitors they made before stopping all tubes, because they have a width pot on the remote board. So much better than putting an alan wrench or tool in that god forsaken width coil to adjust.

 

[kingau]

ok will look in to it.

thanks again

 

[Dion]

The jumper that Spike is talking about is on the top of the chassis. it is a single wire that plugs into a post that is either labeled left-right-or center. You simply unplug it and try plugging it into one of the other posts. It might not be possible to recenter the image if you switch it to another post though. I've only seen one come from the factory set for anything other than center. It depended on the tube used and was set at the factory for the best image with the tube-chassis combo.

I really like the K7000 monitors. They are easy to work on and there is toms of documentation on the web. Unfortunately the squiggle issue is a common problem. It has to do with the way the image from the pcb is synced to the monitor. Chances are if you use other pcbs the squiggle will shrink or maybe even disappear. Neo pcbs seem to have the squiggle problem quite a bit when used with the K7000. However if I were to test a K7000 chassis I just repaired its about a 50/50 chance that there will be squiggle. Kinda sucks...

 

[JazzyNYC]

If you cant get it figured out right, you can always send it to chad at arcade cup to get it fixed properly.

I did a cap kit on one of my aging k7000 boards, and changed the flyback. It looked good, much better than before. Still had some minor issues about it though. Accidentally cracked the remote board, which squished the picture horribly. Sent it to him to fix. When it got back, the picture was PRISTINE. Apparently there were a few caps that didnt come with the cap kit that needed replacing, and he fix some traces that were a little fried. Now its one of my best monitors sitting in my 4 slot.


The price is right as well.

140 repaired with a new flyback, 110 repaired without one.

 

[kingau]

I understand , here's a pic of the part

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it's the small yellow one right next to the nob.
going to unplug it from c to r, to see what happens?

I would send it to arcade cup but things are really tight right now. but thanks for letting me know.

 

[Spike Spiegel]

Yeah, that's the one. Yours is in the center (which is where it normally should be), but moving it over, then adjusting the picture to the left or right won't hurt it. What concerns me is it looks like your width coil has something jammed in it, thus not letting you change it. Bummer.

Also, it's clear you replaced the caps.

But anyhow, yes... move that jumper from one to the other, then look at the pic. Then adjust it left or right to see if that fixes your issue up there. If it does, neat... if not, try the other way. And CHANGE THAT WIDTH COIL. You could be getting issues from that, depending on what's in that hole.

 

[kingau]

Your right I have to change that thing!!! Man that sucks!!
And the monitor still has the lines on the top.
Is their a cap for the v-size or is it just the h-size ?

 

[Spike Spiegel]

Well, for the meanwhile you could fart around with the B+ pot, but be warned if you turn it to high you'll blow the HOT on it among other things. Did you try the 50/60 pot just behind your horizontal hold pot on the board? Just slightly adjust it, for the heck of it.

 

[kingau]

Lol...
Yes I did and the lines are still there.

 

[kingau]

can I use a Electrohome G07 Horizontal Width Coil for a wg k7000?

 

[Dion]

can I use a Electrohome G07 Horizontal Width Coil for a wg k7000?

No. Not many you can interchange.

Here is a great link for info for this monitor:

http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=134818

There is quite a bit of discussion about this topic. Most fixed it or made it better using the 50/60 hz pot. There's more detail in that thread.

 

[Spike Spiegel]

Most fixed it or made it better using the 50/60 hz pot. There's more detail in that thread.

I'm no genius, but that's one of the first and only suggestions I really had. Unless some IC chip has gone bad and needs replacing, I'm not sure.

 

[kingau]

Thanks for the info sites. Well look in to it thanks again.

 

[Dion]

I'm no genius, but that's one of the first and only suggestions I really had. Unless some IC chip has gone bad and needs replacing, I'm not sure.

Yeah. The 50/60 pot allows you to fine tune the sync. Most other monitors don't even give you the ability to do it at all. Unfortunately, the pot mostly lets you make the problem better rather than non-existant. He should verify his B+ also since he did a cap kit. Funky B+ causes this problem on other models of monitors.

 

[kingau]

you guys are right the 50/60 is help a little.

I just put in a new fly back and it looks good,
I started looking for the b+ but later found out the the wg k7000 does not have one.

that link you gave me Mitsurugi-w', is helping I'm going to replace the 51c cap and see what happens.

thanks again

 

[kingau]

got the 51c cap from bob roberts and its good as new.
I also saw that bob roberts has a cap kit that has all the caps you need to fix the monitor.
next time I'm going with bob roberts and not ebay!

thanks to everybody.

 

[brad_irc]

Bob Roberts is a top notch guy. Order everything you possibly can from him, even if it's a little slow to get it.

 

[Dion]

Bob Roberts is a top notch guy. Order everything you possibly can from him, even if it's a little slow to get it.

He is the man. He cross-ships everything since he doesn't accept paypal. He is a trusting guy but unfortunately people try to screw him.

 

[Spike Spiegel]

I'm glad it's working well again!!!