cab restoration

Nesagwa

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Some of you guys have bought cabs that are in horrible condition and turned them into really nice cabs.

I have a question about this shit.

What do you do about painting the cab. Sand it, prime it, and just use like normal house paint or what? Ive been wondering abou this for a while. Do you paint it with a brush? Spray it on? what?
 

Mr-Megalo

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funny you should mention this Nesagwa, I've got a minicute to pickup soon, its gotta be rubbed down, sprayed in primer, then sprayed in metallic, and yea I'm taking it to a car body shop to have it done properly.

one guy in one of the other threads (the candy cabs thread) sprayed his cab a sexxay looking blue
 

Nesagwa

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Mr-Megalo said:
funny you should mention this Nesagwa, I've got a minicute to pickup soon, its gotta be rubbed down, sprayed in primer, then sprayed in metallic, and yea I'm taking it to a car body shop to have it done properly.

one guy in one of the other threads (the candy cabs thread) sprayed his cab a sexxay looking blue


Well the problem is mine is made of wood (particle board, its a really old cab) and Im not sure if the paint would react badly with the wood. I have it all sanded and stuff, and ready for painting and stuff, just dont know how to go about it safely.
 

Mr-Megalo

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I'd guess the same thing applys, would probably need to be primed, to be totally honest one of the other members here would be better commenting on restoring wooden cabs, its something I never ever fancied doing cos I hate wooden cabs

Electrocoin cabinets . . . . ewww
 

Nesagwa

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I just want to know what kind of paint I should use and whats the best way to apply it. Just a quick answer would help me tremendously.

(Especially since its spring break next week and I would be able to actually paint this shit and get some things done).
 

FrostbayneAucti

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The paint really depends. I use spray paint for the gray sides of my cab for touch ups, because it thins out near the edges of the paint and that tends to blend better, but I'd use an eggshell or semi gloss indoor paint from home depot for an entirely new cab. High gloss cleans easier, but reflects a lot of light and may not dry the color you want it. I think another thread somewhere had the pigment variations for the classic red, do a search function on paint and it will probably show up.

Sanding will be neccesary, priming might not be, especially if you do red, because you will need to do about 2-3 coats to get the color right. If you use primer, a dark primer might be better (I used to use black primer on all my warhammer figures that were going to be painted red) because not doing enough coats and light gray primer = drying dirty pink. If you use primer, MAKE SURE IT DRIES FULLY (we are talking days, especially if it's humid where you are doing it) before painting.) You can do second coats of paint without waiting so long, though.
 
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Nesagwa

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FrostbayneAucti said:
The paint really depends. I use spray paint for the gray sides of my cab for touch ups, because it thins out near the edges of the paint and that tends to blend better, but I'd use an eggshell or semi gloss indoor paint from home depot for an entirely new cab. High gloss cleans easier, but reflects a lot of light and may not dry the color you want it. I think another thread somewhere had the pigment variations for the classic red, do a search function on paint and it will probably show up.

Sanding will be neccesary, priming might not be, especially if you do red, because you will need to do about 2-3 coats to get the color right. If you use primer, a dark primer might be better (I used to use black primer on all my warhammer figures that were going to be painted red) because not doing enough coats and light gray primer = drying dirty pink. If you use primer, MAKE SURE IT DRIES FULLY (we are talking days, especially if it's humid where you are doing it) before painting.) You can do second coats of paint without waiting so long, though.


Thanks. Im actually painting it the yellow that is on the Garou AES cover and posters. Its all sanded and ready to paint. Might go over it with some putty or something to give it a better surface (there is some wood damage and holes on the sides from it being so old / the stripping process).
 

FrostbayneAucti

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Nesagwa said:
Thanks. Im actually painting it the yellow that is on the Garou AES cover and posters. Its all sanded and ready to paint. Might go over it with some putty or something to give it a better surface (there is some wood damage and holes on the sides from it being so old / the stripping process).

Yeah, use bondo or the putty they use on minatures to smooth it out. You'll have to primer for yellow, deffinately. You should use a semi gloss with yellow, otherwise the colors may be a little dim.

I would also suggest the gray neo-geo side stickers instead of the red if possible, just my opinion, but the red and yellow might contrast too much.
 
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Nesagwa

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FrostbayneAucti said:
Yeah, use bondo or the putty they use on minatures to smooth it out. You'll have to primer for yellow, deffinately. You should use a semi gloss with yellow, otherwise the colors may be a little dim.

I would also suggest the gray neo-geo side stickers instead of the red if possible, just my opinion, but the red and yellow might contrast too much.


Im printing a custom sticker for the side (Garou logo) and it will have the same yellow in the BG and be cropped by hand down so it isnt noticable. If you havent noticed its going to ge a garou cab. :)
 

Ill6

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If you are going to use spray paint make sure you get a good brand - don't use car paint or some crap from the diy store. #

Make sure you test it somewhere inconspicous - these paints have many solvents and might react.

Also depending on the brand some colors are runny or don't color match tin for tin. I would recomend using Spannish Montana (Montana Hardcore) for a gloss finish or Molotow for a Matt finish. Avoid the yellows that are not white based (i.e. don't have a lot of white). This stuff is formulated for Graffiti and is top notch and MUCH cheaper than the stuff you find in the stores (like Krylon, Plasticote or Rustoleum). Both these brands give a nice even finish.

The key to all spraypaint is the caps/tips. Get some good ones DON'T USE THE STOCKCAPS!!!

Mr-Megalos auto-shop idea would work out ok too. Either way make sure you varnish it well to stop the paint rubbing off.

I could talk for hours about spraypaint but I will stop now!
 

Nesagwa

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Ill6 said:
If you are going to use spray paint make sure you get a good brand - don't use car paint or some crap from the diy store. #

Make sure you test it somewhere inconspicous - these paints have many solvents and might react.

Also depending on the brand some colors are runny or don't color match tin for tin. I would recomend using Spannish Montana (Montana Hardcore) for a gloss finish or Molotow for a Matt finish. Avoid the yellows that are not white based (i.e. don't have a lot of white). This stuff is formulated for Graffiti and is top notch and MUCH cheaper than the stuff you find in the stores (like Krylon, Plasticote or Rustoleum). Both these brands give a nice even finish.

The key to all spraypaint is the caps/tips. Get some good ones DON'T USE THE STOCKCAPS!!!

Mr-Megalos auto-shop idea would work out ok too. Either way make sure you varnish it well to stop the paint rubbing off.

I could talk for hours about spraypaint but I will stop now!

I didnt really mean like graffiti spray paint type stuff. I meant like getting paint mixed and then putting it into a sprayer vs. painting it on with a brush.
 

FrostbayneAucti

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Nesagwa said:
I didnt really mean like graffiti spray paint type stuff. I meant like getting paint mixed and then putting it into a sprayer vs. painting it on with a brush.

I'd use a roller, but thats just me. Rollers tend to give me really even coats (at least on drywall)

I suppose you could use a powerroller too.
 
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