CRT Fetish Thread

[Tempest]

If you have a ton of SCART systems that you need to plug into your PVM, get on the waiting list for one of these: http://www.assemblergames.com/forums/showthread.php?52513-gscartsw-automatic-8-1-SCART-RGB-switch

 

[Tempest]

Double Post

 

[MtothaJ]

Thanks for the reply, yeah that's what I would like to get a list of mainly is what systems I cant use a EUR scart with since I have US systems. I like the idea of getting a SCART box and running through that, I would need to add a sync stripper in some point of the chain though, probably in the cable going from the SCART box to the PVM, does anyone else make a cable with a sync stripper built in?

For the moment I would not worry about a sync stripper. Vast majority of monitors function just fine using composite video as sync and in the event that pure sync would be required a lot of consoles such as Sega Mega Drive / Genesis or the US SNES output that anyway so its often rather a question of rewiring your cables. In any event there are external solutions available e.g. Sync Strike.

 

[Yodd]

For the moment I would not worry about a sync stripper. Vast majority of monitors function just fine using composite video as sync and in the event that pure sync would be required a lot of consoles such as Sega Mega Drive / Genesis or the US SNES output that anyway so its often rather a question of rewiring your cables. In any event there are external solutions available e.g. Sync Strike.

He just bought a PVM 2950Q which most certainly does benefit from having a sync stripper in place.

 

[grendelrt]

If you have a ton of SCART systems that you need to plug into your PVM, get on the waiting list for one of these: http://www.assemblergames.com/forums/showthread.php?52513-gscartsw-automatic-8-1-SCART-RGB-switch

Thats pretty nice looking, ill check it out thanks

For the moment I would not worry about a sync stripper. Vast majority of monitors function just fine using composite video as sync and in the event that pure sync would be required a lot of consoles such as Sega Mega Drive / Genesis or the US SNES output that anyway so its often rather a question of rewiring your cables. In any event there are external solutions available e.g. Sync Strike.

Yeah I have already confirmed that the 2950q needs a stripper, found tons of threads confirming it =)

 

[Yodd]

I can also confirm it as I too have a 2950Q in my stable of rgb monitors and use a LM1881 solution with it.

 

[grendelrt]

I can also confirm it as I too have a 2950Q in my stable of rgb monitors and use a LM1881 solution with it.

Did you just a build a small solution off the LM1881? I am probably going to need to pick up one of your RGB mods for my DUO, problem is that last time i modded it I made a mess, was my first mod

 

[MtothaJ]

Yeah I have already confirmed that the 2950q needs a stripper, found tons of threads confirming it =)

You could also make your own sync stripper and integrate it into the scart switch box / project box / scart plug depending on how you decide to connect to the monitor. Check this out: http://www.mmmonkey.co.uk/composite-sync-stripper-lm1881/

 

[Yodd]

Did you just a build a small solution off the LM1881? I am probably going to need to pick up one of your RGB mods for my DUO, problem is that last time i modded it I made a mess, was my first mod

Yep. I integrated a LM1881 circuit into one of my Bandridge 5 port scart switches. I put a enable/disable switch on the back of the switch box and an external psu connector. I personally don't like using scart power to power external circuits even small ones like a LM1881.


Building a LM1881 circuit is maybe $5 at most. The most expensive component is the LM1881 chip itself which is like $3.00 or so. The rest is 2 caps and a resistor. Maybe a little perfboard to hold it together.


Here are a couple pics of what I did:

 

[MtothaJ]

Yep. I integrated a LM1881 circuit into one of my Bandridge 5 port scart switches. I put a enable/disable switch on the back of the switch box and an external psu connector. I personally don't like using scart power to power external circuits even small ones like a LM1881.

Congrats on the mod - looks very clean. Interesting to see the inside of the 5-port Bandridge switch - I have one incoming and it appears that there is plenty of room inside for various mods etc.

 

[Jassin000]

The Omega also needs a sync stripper to work properly on my 14L5.

This is my latest effort, based on the Texas Instruments LM1881 PDF.



It includes a low pass filter before sync separation, as detailed on pages 6~7.

I've found the filter is a needed addition in the Omega's case. The system makes diagonal "noise" lines which are easily visible in solid colors, after about 1hr of continuous operation.

 

[Yodd]

Congrats on the mod - looks very clean. Interesting to see the inside of the 5-port Bandridge switch - I have one incoming and it appears that there is plenty of room inside for various mods etc.

Tons of space on the inside. You could fit all sorts of stuff inside there.

I highly recommend these switches. Well, the manual version anyways. Skip the powered auto switching units.

 

[Psxed]

There was an option called Trap in my service menu but it only goes from 0 to 1 and doesn't effect the screen. There is no tilt or landing function, i also tried everything in the service menu but still nothing.

 

[Yodd]

You probably need to take the back off the PVM and look for potentiometers on one of the boards.


But be careful. There are voltages inside there that can kill.

 

[indierocklocks]

Yep. I integrated a LM1881 circuit into one of my Bandridge 5 port scart switches. I put a enable/disable switch on the back of the switch box and an external psu connector. I personally don't like using scart power to power external circuits even small ones like a LM1881.


Building a LM1881 circuit is maybe $5 at most. The most expensive component is the LM1881 chip itself which is like $3.00 or so. The rest is 2 caps and a resistor. Maybe a little perfboard to hold it together.

Needs more hot glue. jk.

Very clean...I need to do the same with my Bandridge I got from your group buy. Not sure exactly where to start though. Is there anywhere on forum or elsewhere I could find out?

 

[2050-Z]

Someone got lucky........£87 FFS!

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/291204521825?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Pics for posterity:

 

[grendelrt]

Picked up my ebay winnings today, nothing to test them with until tomorrow. I have a RCA to BCN adapter I am going to use just to test composite until I can start getting SCART stuff together.


20 and 29

14 and 8

 

[Yodd]

Did you get the remote with the 2950Q?

Because you really need it if you didn't.

 

[2050-Z]

The white square at the top of some PVMs is called a "tally lamp", used to indicate "ON AIR" status in a studio environment. It can be lit up in different colors using the remote.

> The tally lamp function is forcibly assigned to 7 pin and 8 pin of the PARALLEL REMOTE connector. Selecting ON assigns tally lamp green to 7 pin and tally lamp red to 8 pin.

> The PVM-740 features a tally lamp controlled by the parallel remote connector. The tally lamp identifies the status of the signal by the colors red, green or amber.

Might be a cool thing to somehow mod. Is anyone using it?

 

[grendelrt]

Did you get the remote with the 2950Q?

Because you really need it if you didn't.

No I will message him and see if he has it, thanks

Edit: What function does the remote have that the controls on the front dont have?

 

[Halfabag]

Pics for posterity:

Would love to know who got them. Wouldn't mind a couple.

Maybe they will get put back on ebay and I'll snag em then.

 

[Jibbajaba]

The white square at the top of some PVMs is called a "tally lamp", used to indicate "ON AIR" status in a studio environment. It can be lit up in different colors using the remote.

> The tally lamp function is forcibly assigned to 7 pin and 8 pin of the PARALLEL REMOTE connector. Selecting ON assigns tally lamp green to 7 pin and tally lamp red to 8 pin.

> The PVM-740 features a tally lamp controlled by the parallel remote connector. The tally lamp identifies the status of the signal by the colors red, green or amber.

Might be a cool thing to somehow mod. Is anyone using it?

My BVM has that same lamp. Now I have to figure out how to use it!

Edit: Looks like I would have to actually make a dingle to plug into the back of the monitor to turn the lamp on. Bleh.

 

[CMS]

My "tally lamp" lights up red every-time I turn the monitor on and then after a second it fades out. I also noticed it to be lit when I was tuning the frequency.. On my other PVM 20M4E (same model) I've never seen it lit up.

 

[Yodd]

Edit: What function does the remote have that the controls on the front dont have?

You won't be able to access the service menu to make advanced adjustments.

 

[grendelrt]

You won't be able to access the service menu to make advanced adjustments.

He messaged me back and said he found it, so I will go grab during work on Monday, thanks for the reminder I didnt even think about it.