TheGreenMachine
Geese's Thug
- Joined
- Jul 21, 2003
- Posts
- 271
Here's some more arcade related odds and ends I need to get rid of before moving.
1. "unoffical" AVP Asian Gray CPS2 A/B board set - SOLD(offline)
2. Capcom CPS2 A board (US region) - SOLD
This is an extra Capcom US region CPS2 A board that needs to go. No clips or feet, just the A board. Shows the usual signs of wear and use.
3. Taito F3 motherboard (Japan region) - SOLD
This is a Taito F3 Japan region mother board. I originally had this in a cabinet I ran as a dedicated Taito F3 machine. I am selling the cabinet so this now extra board needs to go. The plastic PCB frame has a chip broke out in the rear where one the four legs would be. I epoxied a plastic shim at the site of the chip to reinforce it as seen in the photos. I also epoxied a crack in one of the feet on the front, also as seen in the photos.
Otherwise I just screwed it down via the other 3 legs inside my cabinet and it was perfectly fine. The PCB itself is in excellent shape.
Note this is a Japan region mobo. That means the cartridge edge connectors are keyed so they will only mate with Japan(and Asia?) region cartridges. Some folks cut the tabs out of the sockets on the mobo so they are "region-less". This one is stock however and would need to be converted if desired by the new owner.
4. blank sega 1L4B(modified 1L3B) project control panel
This was originally a horribly rusty Sega Versus City 1P control panel that came on my New Astro City. It was a 3 button panel that someone drilled a 4th button hole into. They did a pretty good job on the alignment but I wouldn't make any guarantees it would match up exactly against a stock 4 button overlay.
I stripped off the old overlay, sanded down, and bead blasted the panel. I also filed the 4th button hole some to clean-up the previous drill work. It was deeply pitted in some areas because of the rust, but after bead blasting I wiped it down with acetone and then used some spot putty on the pitted areas.
I then threw a quick coat of bare metal primer on it to keep it from rusting again. I would still recommend putting another layer of putty onto the pitted areas and then actually repainting it with a nice enamel. Then slap on an overlay and you are good to go.
I would like to get $25 shipped via UPS ground for this panel.
- TGM
1. "unoffical" AVP Asian Gray CPS2 A/B board set - SOLD(offline)
2. Capcom CPS2 A board (US region) - SOLD
This is an extra Capcom US region CPS2 A board that needs to go. No clips or feet, just the A board. Shows the usual signs of wear and use.
3. Taito F3 motherboard (Japan region) - SOLD
This is a Taito F3 Japan region mother board. I originally had this in a cabinet I ran as a dedicated Taito F3 machine. I am selling the cabinet so this now extra board needs to go. The plastic PCB frame has a chip broke out in the rear where one the four legs would be. I epoxied a plastic shim at the site of the chip to reinforce it as seen in the photos. I also epoxied a crack in one of the feet on the front, also as seen in the photos.
Otherwise I just screwed it down via the other 3 legs inside my cabinet and it was perfectly fine. The PCB itself is in excellent shape.
Note this is a Japan region mobo. That means the cartridge edge connectors are keyed so they will only mate with Japan(and Asia?) region cartridges. Some folks cut the tabs out of the sockets on the mobo so they are "region-less". This one is stock however and would need to be converted if desired by the new owner.
4. blank sega 1L4B(modified 1L3B) project control panel
This was originally a horribly rusty Sega Versus City 1P control panel that came on my New Astro City. It was a 3 button panel that someone drilled a 4th button hole into. They did a pretty good job on the alignment but I wouldn't make any guarantees it would match up exactly against a stock 4 button overlay.
I stripped off the old overlay, sanded down, and bead blasted the panel. I also filed the 4th button hole some to clean-up the previous drill work. It was deeply pitted in some areas because of the rust, but after bead blasting I wiped it down with acetone and then used some spot putty on the pitted areas.
I then threw a quick coat of bare metal primer on it to keep it from rusting again. I would still recommend putting another layer of putty onto the pitted areas and then actually repainting it with a nice enamel. Then slap on an overlay and you are good to go.
I would like to get $25 shipped via UPS ground for this panel.
- TGM
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