HELP, MY MONITOR DIED
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neptonikboy
New Challenger
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Is your monitor not coming on at all?
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I've heard of people sending invalid frequencies before and the chassis pops or just goes out. And after a few hours the monitor would work again. I know you didn't bust the tube, unless it was a freak accident and it had nothing to do with the frequencies
You could have blown the chassis, but I doubt that the tube is damaged. I've accidentally fed my blast 1080p a few times but I knew right away when it was blurry what was up and I was never messing with the H/V holds.
You could have blown the chassis, but I doubt that the tube is damaged. I've accidentally fed my blast 1080p a few times but I knew right away when it was blurry what was up and I was never messing with the H/V holds.
clutch
Geese's Thug
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Cool. I didn't feel like dicking with it, so I sent the chassis to Jomac in Australia of all places. lol I was expecting the hand of God to touch me or something whenever I discharged the monitor, but it didn't even pop. 
The only thing that makes me even consider a bad tube is it was fairly blurry around the edges. Seems that's a sign of a tube on the way out. At least from what I've read.
The only thing that makes me even consider a bad tube is it was fairly blurry around the edges. Seems that's a sign of a tube on the way out. At least from what I've read.
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NEO-GEO man
Fake account, shill troll for Christophe Ratel. Us
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Just for future reference, incase it helps someone else....
The tube wont be affected by over driving the electronics, the tube is not the limiting factor in what you can send it, the capability of the board is. Blury around the edges means nothing of the sort in relation to its remaining life. It means the tube is either not capable of resolving the resolution youre sending it. An ES focusing tube will slowly lose its sharpness over the lifespan, this is true, but it will be evenly out of focus across the whole screen, and it will need around 100,000 hours before this is even a concern, given the fact it is a standard def tube. Ive actually got a set of Sony 07MS tubes here from a CRT video projector with 60,000 hours on them, and although burned in pretty badly, were still able to produce a sharp enough image.
What you have very likely done is blown the H output transistor, im not familiar with the chassis so i couldnt say for sure what it could be. First thing to check is the fuse, and then start checking the diode bridge and some of the larger transistors.
As for the sugestion of "cap kits", no... Plain and simple no. You dont go and replace capacitors willy nilly, cause this is a total waste of time if they are not in need of replacement. If they are bad, replace the bad ones, if the others test perfectly fine, leave them in. 9 times out of 10 ill bet people are replacing good quality capacitors with plenty of life left in them with cheap shit from the local electronics shop that will be lucky to get inside the rather loose tollerance they put on them. Bad capacitors are quite often to blame for failures, but this is no good reason to replace any that are not bad. Besides that, in this case it wasnt caused by a bad capacitor, nor will replacing any that arent stuffed make the monitor work.
The tube wont be affected by over driving the electronics, the tube is not the limiting factor in what you can send it, the capability of the board is. Blury around the edges means nothing of the sort in relation to its remaining life. It means the tube is either not capable of resolving the resolution youre sending it. An ES focusing tube will slowly lose its sharpness over the lifespan, this is true, but it will be evenly out of focus across the whole screen, and it will need around 100,000 hours before this is even a concern, given the fact it is a standard def tube. Ive actually got a set of Sony 07MS tubes here from a CRT video projector with 60,000 hours on them, and although burned in pretty badly, were still able to produce a sharp enough image.
What you have very likely done is blown the H output transistor, im not familiar with the chassis so i couldnt say for sure what it could be. First thing to check is the fuse, and then start checking the diode bridge and some of the larger transistors.
As for the sugestion of "cap kits", no... Plain and simple no. You dont go and replace capacitors willy nilly, cause this is a total waste of time if they are not in need of replacement. If they are bad, replace the bad ones, if the others test perfectly fine, leave them in. 9 times out of 10 ill bet people are replacing good quality capacitors with plenty of life left in them with cheap shit from the local electronics shop that will be lucky to get inside the rather loose tollerance they put on them. Bad capacitors are quite often to blame for failures, but this is no good reason to replace any that are not bad. Besides that, in this case it wasnt caused by a bad capacitor, nor will replacing any that arent stuffed make the monitor work.
NEO-GEO man
Fake account, shill troll for Christophe Ratel. Us
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Yeah, and it wont be me. And i wont support incorrect diagnostics or repair techniques either.
If you or anyone else here would rather i didnt offer help, thats fine, but why make such a stupid statement? Why should anyone give you anything for nothing? If anyone wants to fix something, the correct tools are a must, or youre just taking stabs in the dark and youll be lucky if you dont make it worse. Id have thought you should know that too....
If you or anyone else here would rather i didnt offer help, thats fine, but why make such a stupid statement? Why should anyone give you anything for nothing? If anyone wants to fix something, the correct tools are a must, or youre just taking stabs in the dark and youll be lucky if you dont make it worse. Id have thought you should know that too....
Dion
Known Scammer, NeoGeoFreak Co-Founder
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No sense of humor? It is unreasonable for most people on these forums to have an ESR meter. In my opinion, someone who will only have only one or two machines have no need for a meter. A cap kit when its obviously a cap problem is doing no harm to the inexperienced collector. A kit is like $5. A meter is $100 or more. You are right that a non-cap problem wont be fixed by a cap kit and is a waste of time. That's where your advice becomes more helpful. So as I've said, to someone who works on monitors a lot an ESR meter is a must. For the average person on this forum a cap kit is just fine. No one should take stabs at it. That's why people should ask help from the forums first. In the case of caps, replacing a few caps that may still be good with new caps wont make things worse.
I'm sure no one wants you to stop dispensing your advice. Including me. We just see things from two different points of view.
I'm sure no one wants you to stop dispensing your advice. Including me. We just see things from two different points of view.
NEO-GEO man
Fake account, shill troll for Christophe Ratel. Us
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I see we do yes, and my appologies, i thought you were having a shot at me for trying to help and share my knowledge.
If replacing caps with caps of a lessor standard, which is not uncomon with all the cheap rubish around these days, all youre doing is introducing possible unreliability. That is my greatest fear with replacing good caps.
If replacing caps with caps of a lessor standard, which is not uncomon with all the cheap rubish around these days, all youre doing is introducing possible unreliability. That is my greatest fear with replacing good caps.
Tango
Tung's Hair Stylist
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yeah... as mentioned above, forcing a resolution on the monitor will likely blow the HOT (horizontal output transistor) and chances are, that is going to be a hell of a piece to find to replace it. I think you made the right call sending it to Jomac... honestly that might be your only shot at saving this chassis.
Was some months you initially made this thread so Im interested to see if he was able to get you squared away or not. Im sure it wouldnt (wasnt) be cheap but the guy is worth every penny.
Was some months you initially made this thread so Im interested to see if he was able to get you squared away or not. Im sure it wouldnt (wasnt) be cheap but the guy is worth every penny.