iScan Pro upscaler problem (losing video signal)

[Xian Xi]

If you need me to do this for you just let me know.

 

[Billkwando]

And for the vents, drill holes not cut out a section.

Oh I didn't cut out a section, I basically cut my own grate in the case, slightly longer than the heatsink. It's got about 5 or 6 straight(ish) cutting wheel cuts that run longways, that are spaced to be the full width of the heatsink.

If you need me to do this for you just let me know.

I really appreciate the kind offer, but I've wasted enough money on this piece of crap as it is. I could've bought a 2nd one with all I've spend on PSUs and the fan.

Speaking of, the fan was delivered today, so I'll take a look tonight or tomorrow, and if I feel I'm in over my head, I'll let you know. Assuming I find a 5v source to tap, I should do it on the solder side, right? Not some crazy jumpers on the legs of the regulator.

It's pretty easy to touch a solder point long enough to stick a wire into it before it cools off. I'm pretty comfortable with that.

Question.....should I be using the 15watt or 30watt side of the switch? I read recently that 30 is too much for sensitive electronics, but it always worked good in the past (other than my issues getting solder to stick to certain things).

Thanks!!

 

[Xian Xi]

Question.....should I be using the 15watt or 30watt side of the switch? I read recently that 30 is too much for sensitive electronics, but it always worked good in the past (other than my issues getting solder to stick to certain things).

Thanks!!

It all depends on your skill, I use an 80 watt. I don't even remember how long it takes with a 30 watt. Just remember to add a little solder to the tip first to help with heat transfer and then add a little bit of solder to where you are soldering to. Also make sure you tin the wires on the fan meaning add some solder to them and trim any excess length before soldering the joint.

 

[Billkwando]

It all depends on your skill, I use an 80 watt. I don't even remember how long it takes with a 30 watt. Just remember to add a little solder to the tip first to help with heat transfer and then add a little bit of solder to where you are soldering to. Also make sure you tin the wires on the fan meaning add some solder to them and trim any excess length before soldering the joint.

Yep! All that I'm familiar with.

Also, is it safe to run the wires through that hole to the right of the heatsink to the solder side, or is there a genuine possibility of it getting hot enough to melt them? The whole board slides into the case like a drawer (notice the silver "tracks" along the edges), so there are limited places to run a wire to the other side.


Edit: Off topic, did you ever see that Virtual On twin stick I built?:

http://www.oratan.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=502

I have jumpered a few jumpers in my time.

 

[Billkwando]

Well, it turns out the screw holes were 30mm apart(ish), but the fan is 30mm wide, period....so it's too small. I think it wants a 35mm fan.

On the bright side, I found 2 empty holes that were just chillin there, nowhere near anything, outputting 5v. The LM317 was only putting out 4v.





So in the interest of not doing nothing, I used twisties to attach the fan to the board. Will it get too hot and melt them, do you think? I won't be trying to stick it back into the case until tomorrow anyway, but I figured it was better than nothing.

 

[Billkwando]

I'm pretty sure it's fixed now. I fell asleep last night with it and the Saturn running, and when I woke up this morning I ran Burning Rangers for over 3 hours and didn't notice a single dropout. When there's nothing else making noise, the iScan sounds like it's getting ready to leave the helipad, but it's no big deal. I'm not gonna leave it plugged in anyway. Thanks for all the good advices.

 

[Xian Xi]

Glad to hear it's fixed.