Tyranix95
Chang's Grocer
- Joined
- Jun 30, 2010
- Posts
- 4,593
Last edited:
Need Help Repairing Neo Conversion Cab
- Thread starter chimera
- Start date
Chang's Grocer
Tyranix95
Chang's Grocer
- Joined
- Jun 30, 2010
- Posts
- 4,593
Ok E,
If your speakers measure 8 Ohms, then I'd suggest trying this:
---
http://www.neo-geo.com/forums/showthread.php?181355-Making-A-Mono-Stereo-Switch
The Aero [cab] has 8ohm speakers wired in parallel (4ohm impedence), so you want to keep it like that when the switch is set to mono. Use a 3PDT switch and wire it like this:
Black row connected to green row = MVS stereo
Black row connected to red row = Jamma mono
---
A General Diagram of a 3PDT switch:
---
And double check your positions with your multi-meter, so you know which one is which.
If your speakers measure 8 Ohms, then I'd suggest trying this:
---
http://www.neo-geo.com/forums/showthread.php?181355-Making-A-Mono-Stereo-Switch
The Aero [cab] has 8ohm speakers wired in parallel (4ohm impedence), so you want to keep it like that when the switch is set to mono. Use a 3PDT switch and wire it like this:
Black row connected to green row = MVS stereo
Black row connected to red row = Jamma mono
---
A General Diagram of a 3PDT switch:
---
And double check your positions with your multi-meter, so you know which one is which.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Aug 14, 2000
- Posts
- 1,768
If you're thinking about redoing the control panel overlay, you can get one specifically for a Dynamo corner cut cab here:
http://www.neo-geo.com/forums/showt...s-the-ugliest-one-ever)&p=3649355#post3649355 Everything's separate layers, so you can move all the parts around to fit your cp.
We added some extra black space at the top, to have some to fold over the top of the cp, where it lays against the glass, which helps secure it and gives it a clean look. I'd recommend you do the same if you use it. Unfortunately I don't have the final file anymore.
The link was dead so I reuploaded it for you.
Also, if you're thinking about lighting up the marquee, I've been researching using CFL bulbs since that seems to be a popular thing now. I got some 13 watt (60 watt equivalent), regular-ass soft white (27,000 kelvin) bulbs, but they seemed way too bright and too yellow (they lit up the room in a kinda creepy red glow). I remember (perhaps wrongly), the Neo logo in original machines looking much whiter (did they use florescent bulbs?).
The bulb I ended up ordering is a pair of 9 watt (40 watt equiv) cool white cfl. They're 41,000 Kelvin, supposedly white-ass white, which is what I want:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CISCR1M/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If Amazon ever delivers them, I'll let you know how it turns out.
Apparently, the standard for machines like the Dynamo was a 25 watt "hotdog bulb", but I wanted something that would last a long time
http://www.neo-geo.com/forums/showt...s-the-ugliest-one-ever)&p=3649355#post3649355 Everything's separate layers, so you can move all the parts around to fit your cp.
We added some extra black space at the top, to have some to fold over the top of the cp, where it lays against the glass, which helps secure it and gives it a clean look. I'd recommend you do the same if you use it. Unfortunately I don't have the final file anymore.
The link was dead so I reuploaded it for you.
Also, if you're thinking about lighting up the marquee, I've been researching using CFL bulbs since that seems to be a popular thing now. I got some 13 watt (60 watt equivalent), regular-ass soft white (27,000 kelvin) bulbs, but they seemed way too bright and too yellow (they lit up the room in a kinda creepy red glow). I remember (perhaps wrongly), the Neo logo in original machines looking much whiter (did they use florescent bulbs?).
The bulb I ended up ordering is a pair of 9 watt (40 watt equiv) cool white cfl. They're 41,000 Kelvin, supposedly white-ass white, which is what I want:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CISCR1M/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If Amazon ever delivers them, I'll let you know how it turns out.
Apparently, the standard for machines like the Dynamo was a 25 watt "hotdog bulb", but I wanted something that would last a long time
Last edited:
If you're thinking about redoing the control panel overlay, you can get one specifically for a Dynamo corner cut cab here:
http://www.neo-geo.com/forums/showt...s-the-ugliest-one-ever)&p=3649355#post3649355 Everything's separate layers, so you can move all the parts around to fit your cp.
We added some extra black space at the top, to have some to fold over the top of the cp, where it lays against the glass, which helps secure it and gives it a clean look. I'd recommend you do the same if you use it. Unfortunately I don't have the final file anymore.
The link was dead so I reuploaded it for you.
Also, if you're thinking about lighting up the marquee, I've been researching using CFL bulbs since that seems to be a popular thing now. I got some 13 watt (60 watt equivalent), regular-ass soft white (27,000 kelvin) bulbs, but they seemed way too bright and too yellow (they lit up the room in a kinda creepy red glow). I remember (perhaps wrongly), the Neo logo in original machines looking much whiter (did they use florescent bulbs?).
The bulb I ended up ordering is a pair of 9 watt (40 watt equiv) cool white cfl. They're 41,000 Kelvin, supposedly white-ass white, which is what I want:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CISCR1M/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If Amazon ever delivers them, I'll let you know how it turns out.
Apparently, the standard for machines like the Dynamo was a 25 watt "hotdog bulb", but I wanted something that would last a long time
thanks for uploading that image. im on a phone right now so i wont be able to check it out yet but its greatly appreciated
I definitely am going to replace the CPO on my cabinet. its pretty ugly but the cab is a bit beat up too so it takes your focus off the overlay. But right now i just want the speakers working... i didnt get to check the ohms or check the wiring for the speakers this afternoon since my wife and i went out but i'll check everything tomorrow. Im gunna follow the wiring through all the harness to get to the bottom of this mono audio crap lol.
The marquee on my cab is lit with regular light bulbs too but i have them out because they are way to bright and yellow aswell. I think florescent bulbs would be much better. I have some laying around so ill swap them and see the differences.
ill post pics of my ugly cpo tomorrow
Tyranix95
Chang's Grocer
- Joined
- Jun 30, 2010
- Posts
- 4,593
You can take a sample to the pain desk and have them color match it.
Or, you can find a couple of the guys around here who just re-painted their cab and get the color codes from them and have the pain desk mix that.
---
But, of the top of my head, check with Mitsurugi-w. I think he's got the paint codes. He's usually fixing up something.
Or, you can find a couple of the guys around here who just re-painted their cab and get the color codes from them and have the pain desk mix that.
---
But, of the top of my head, check with Mitsurugi-w. I think he's got the paint codes. He's usually fixing up something.
- Joined
- Aug 14, 2000
- Posts
- 1,768
If that's the grenadine I linked to and bought in the other thread I posted, then yes.
You want Behr Ultra Latex Enamel. I got eggshell cos it very closely resembles the texture of the original dedicated MVS cabs (makes you wanna rub it! LOL). The front of the cab took about 6 coats for some reason (the sides needed about 4). You won't regret it.
Terot
Kabuki Klasher
- Joined
- Apr 2, 2013
- Posts
- 129
If you want stereo sound you will have to re-wire the cabinet to the MVS standard, however, since you can get to the test screen I believe your harness is probably already wired for MVS (the test switch is a different pin on JAMMA). For stereo you need to wire pin L to + audio on the left speaker and pin 10 to + audio on the right speaker and make sure both speakers share a ground that is connected to the harness (on multi-slot cabs they usually use pin 28 but ant really will do).
Aha.. Thanks Terot.
The test switch on the cab above the coin mech is not wired up. I get to the test mode by flipping dip switch one on the board. Also thanks for your input. I was wondering where the speakers are supposed to be grounded to since it just positives.. That clears up a lot. Sadly, not much investigation has been done on the cabs speaker wiring because of my college work. I got prioritize that first lol.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Aug 14, 2000
- Posts
- 1,768
I got those bulbs finally. Amazon ended up sending me a 2nd pair for free cos my delivery was so delayed, so that's a bonus!
It looks exactly like I hoped it would.
It's lit up, without lighting up the whole room, so it definitely worked out.
It does say on the bulbs not to use them in fully enclosed recessed fixtures, but I'm hoping this doesn't count. It's not like they're crammed into some tiny glass porch light...
It looks exactly like I hoped it would.
It's lit up, without lighting up the whole room, so it definitely worked out.
It does say on the bulbs not to use them in fully enclosed recessed fixtures, but I'm hoping this doesn't count. It's not like they're crammed into some tiny glass porch light...
Tyranix95
Chang's Grocer
- Joined
- Jun 30, 2010
- Posts
- 4,593
Add a dimmer switch, for kicks, and keep an eye on the heat/temp.
If the light box area gets to hot, may want to add a little vent (and/or a quiet fan) near the top, back area of the cab.
---
Also, got to show the cab with the screen on!
If the light box area gets to hot, may want to add a little vent (and/or a quiet fan) near the top, back area of the cab.
---
Also, got to show the cab with the screen on!
Last edited: