- Joined
- Jul 26, 2008
- Posts
- 11,029
Nice. Love this stick x100 over the AES stick.
Nice. Love this stick x100 over the AES stick.
"Junk," but not for long...
I wish I could see images. Attached files to the forums just are listed as IMG_0000.jpg (Or whatever number is applicable), and if I click on them, I don't have access.
However, based on the description is this a rusty Hori stick that was on ebay not long ago?
It probally is for noobs like us.It seems to be an account issue as I get the same result, but obviously others can see the image.
I think I saw that one when I was looking for an arcade stick. It was one I was watching because It would be nothing for me to wire wheel the rust off and repaint. I ended up making my own anyway, but it is cool that you got something one of us was looking at.....I would imagine that happens more than we know.The rust is literally just on the top plate in the lower corners and on the associated screws. No sign of any moisture damage inside, so I'm 99% sure it was just a prolific sweater.
I doubt it would have rusted had it been in continual use, but you are correct that the metal became exposed from usage, and the oxidization happened after storage. Stainless steel can develop rust, but it takes a special kind of stupidity to start into it. Rubbing it with a carbon steel brush or brillo pad can cause unsightly surface rust that is unstoppable. It never eats through, but will always stay surface level. I am sure there is some sort of chemical treatment to remove it, but methods and materials would most likely exceed costs in all but the most critical industrial applications.The rust is much more likely to have been caused by how its been stored over the last 2-3 decades.
I doubt it would have rusted had it been in continual use, but you are correct that the metal became exposed from usage, and the oxidization happened after storage. Stainless steel can develop rust, but it takes a special kind of stupidity to start into it. Rubbing it with a carbon steel brush or brillo pad can cause unsightly surface rust that is unstoppable. It never eats through, but will always stay surface level. I am sure there is some sort of chemical treatment to remove it, but methods and materials would most likely exceed costs in all but the most critical industrial applications.
Shinchan:
I would certainly suggest that after disassembly that the plate is wire brushed (Power brush would be optimal) completely until all visible rust is removed. After that find a plastic tub and soak it for a day in white vinegar to combat any random rust remaining. From there another scrub down with a wire brush, wipe down with ISO alcohol or pure acetone and fill in any pock marks with bondo. Depending on the depth you could use a few coats of primer instead of the bondo with sanding in between a few thicker coats. Rust is a pain in the ass, and if not approached correctly, it will rust again but under your fresh new paint.
That Amiga setup is awesome, especially with the boxed Psygnosis games.
I've had the Amiga 2000 for a long time now, but finally got the small leakage from the battery cleaned and a coin battery installed recently. Collected some games, accessories, and scored a mint monitor while I was waiting on the battery mod work. Now I just need an original mouse.
Box looks fake and is that just chinese plastic wrap?