Sengoku 3 MVS corrupt graphics

[not sonic]

So I've got a copy of Sengoku 3. Looks completely legit/original with all mask roms.

No matter how I jiggle it, clean it, what mvs board i put it in, the graphics display corrupt. I checked all the solder joints and they seem fine.

Here's some screens:











Any ideas?

 

[HeavyMachineGoob]

Those double sided SNK boards are really tough, I wouldn't expect them to develop cracked joints on the DIP ROM chips.

The fix layer still works and sometimes recognizeable tiles are visible, so it's probably not a dead NEO-CMC. It looks like one or more C ROMs have died though.

Solid colored blocks in-game mean the Neo Geo isn't getting any graphic data, which for CHA-FIO games means either enable lines are down, one or more Mask ROMs have died or the NEO-CMC is dead. Would be best to go over the Mask ROMs with a logic probe and see if any lines are stuck low/high or aren't doing anything otherwise.

 

[not sonic]

Thanks for the in depth response.

Time to buy a probe. And maybe give it one more good cleaning.

The game looks physically OK. I should've tested it when I bought it and not a year later.

 

[mjs256]

Isn't Sengoku 3 one of the games that is known to have issues with certain versions of MVS hardware like the MV-1? Which motherboard are you using? Have you tried this cart on a different MVS?

 

[Xian Xi]

CMC addressing issue. Might just be a lifted leg, reflow the legs first. If it still exists then swap the chip out.

 

[LWK]

Definitely open up the cart, and look at EVERY single solder joint. I recommend a good magnifier if you have one. It also helps to own a nice spot light to see this stuff. When I do reflow's of boards, or chassis, I have a nice bright desk lamp I can adjust to a good angle to have a good viewing position. It is definitely unlikely that the boards traces are brittle. I just don't run into this problem typically, so if something is off, it could be that someone spilled something in there. Also, look for signs that someone washed these in a dish washer. I don't recommend people do this, as it leaves traces of residue around the solder joints. I bought a defective Metal Slug 3 that looked like it went through this treatment and got it working great after seeing that residue and removing it. Isopropyl is your friend.