Sound issue with MV-1FZ in Atomiswave SD cab (HELP!)

[360heelflip]

Finally got my NEO MV-1FZ MB and the Sound is poo every time I turn the cab on and the red LED on the NEO MB flickers on and off. Sounds like the audio is being turned on and off. I have to turn the cab off, and the back on for the LED to stop flickering and the sound to be fine.

The whole time the video is fine, what would be the issue? Is the board defective? Has the Unibios 2.3 installed. I had the same MB (with-out unibios) with my previous Atomiswave SD and had no issues. I know this time it has a transformer step-down, where as the last one had the PSU changed, can this be an issue?

I looked on the net and the Atomiswave SD pinout should be as such...

------------- 56-pin edge connector -------------
PARTS (TOP) SIDE | SOLDER (BOTTOM) SIDE
GND 1 | A GND
GND 2 | B GND
+5V 3 | C +5V
+5V 4 | D +5V
-5V 5 | E -5V (OPTIONAL *)
+12V 6| F +12V
KEY 7 | G KEY
COIN COUNTER #1 8 | H COIN COUNTER #2
LOCKOUT COIL #1 9 | I LOCKOUT COIL #2
MONO SPEAKER (+) 10| J MONO SPEAKER (-)
AUDIO (+) [PRE-AMP] 11| K AUDIO GND [PRE-AMP]
VIDEO RED 12| L VIDEO GREEN
VIDEO BLUE 13| M VIDEO SYNC (COMPOSITE SYNC)
VIDEO GND 14| N SERVICE SWITCH [OPTIONAL]
TEST SWITCH 15| O TILT SWITCH [OPTIONAL]
COIN SWITCH #1 16| P COIN SWITCH #2
1P START 17| Q 2P START
1P UP 18| R 2P UP
1P DOWN 19| S 2P DOWN
1P LEFT 20| T 2P LEFT
1P RIGHT 21| U 2P RIGHT
1P BUTTON A 22| V 2P BUTTON A
1P BUTTON B 23| W 2P BUTTON B
1P BUTTON C 24| X 2P BUTTON C
1P BUTTON D 25| Y 2P BUTTON D
1P BUTTON E 26| Z 2P BUTTON E
GND 27| AA GND
GND 28| BB GND
PARTS (TOP) SIDE | SOLDER (BOTTOM) SIDE



Mine is:


------------- 56-pin edge connector -------------
PARTS (TOP) SIDE | SOLDER (BOTTOM) SIDE
GND 1 | A GND
GND 2 | B GND (MISSING)
+5V 3 | C +5V
+5V 4 | D +5V
-5V (OPTIONAL *) 5 | E -5V (OPTIONAL *) (MISSING)
+12V 6 | F +12V
KEY 7 | G KEY
COIN COUNTER #1 8 | H COIN COUNTER #2 (MISSING no drama)
LOCKOUT COIL #1 9 | I LOCKOUT COIL #2 (both MISSING no drama)
MONO SPEAKER (+) ** 10| J MONO SPEAKER (-) **
AUDIO (+) [PRE-AMP] 11| K AUDIO GND [PRE-AMP] (both MISSING)
VIDEO RED 12| L VIDEO GREEN
VIDEO BLUE 13| M VIDEO SYNC (COMPOSITE SYNC)
VIDEO GND 14| N SERVICE SWITCH [OPTIONAL]
TEST SWITCH 15| O TILT SWITCH [OPTIONAL] (MISSING no drama)
COIN SWITCH #1 16| P COIN SWITCH #2 (MISSING no drama)
1P START 17| Q 2P START
1P UP 18| R 2P UP
1P DOWN 19| S 2P DOWN
1P LEFT 20| T 2P LEFT
1P RIGHT 21| U 2P RIGHT
1P BUTTON A 22| V 2P BUTTON A
1P BUTTON B 23| W 2P BUTTON B
1P BUTTON C 24| X 2P BUTTON C
1P BUTTON D 25| Y 2P BUTTON D
1P BUTTON E 26| Z 2P BUTTON E (nither are coming out of the K and J)
GND 27| AA GND
GND 28| BB GND (BOTTOM MISSING)
PARTS (TOP) SIDE | SOLDER (BOTTOM) SIDE

Should those grounding wires and the audio pre-amp wires be missing on the harness? Possibly why the sound is stuffed on my NEO MB?

 

[360heelflip]

sorted

Actually not fully sorted now...

 

[Xian Xi]

Please post the fix, we don't like to leave loose ends here.

 

[360heelflip]

The VGA wasn't plugged in all the way on the PCB inside the Atomiswave SD cab, so that's why there wasn't visual. Sound wise, I had to turn the cab off and then back on twice, then the sound sorts it self out. Might be due to the Unibios?

 

[360heelflip]

Sound is still poo every time I turn the cab on and the red LED on the NEO MB flickers on and off. I have to turn the cab off, and the back on for the LED to stop and the sound to be fine. The whole time the video is fine, what would be the issue?

 

[kernow]

Its your power supply, the Wei-Ya P271 in the AWSD is garbage. I take it being in Australia you are using a 230->110v stepdown transformer. The PSU itself has very low tolerences and runs a lot better on its native 100v.

I ended up swapping mine with an egret 2 one and its been fine ever since, even on a stepdown.

Get a multimeter, measure your +5v and +12v and watch them wildly fluctuate for 5 minutes until the PSU warms up.

Its a common problem with the AWSD, the PSU's are cheap and awful.

If you can get hold of a 100V stepdown, try it and it might eliminate the problem, if not, you can wire a standard JAMMA PSU in there, but you'll still have to use a stepdown as the monitor chassis won't probably be dual voltage, and the light header would still be 110V.

Hope this helps.

 

[ReplicaX]

Hello Mr. Kern

 

[360heelflip]

Cheers mate. I just check and the transformer they supplied is:

Input 230-240V AC, 50Hz, 1.1A/ Output 115V AC, 250 VA

should I use this instead?

http://www.tortech.com.au/product/300-watt-japanese-step-down/

 

[kernow]

You might have better luck with it, a few people have used 100V stepdowns in the past and their problems with the AWSD automatically cleared up. I'm not saying its a de-facto solution or anything as the PSU is still rubbish.

You should definitely get a multimeter and measure your +12 and +5 regardless though, the sound problem is caused by the +12 being too low, or being all over the place. I'd personally get a little harness made up and swap it out for a normal JAMMA PSU, or if you can try one of those stepdowns without buying it to make sure it works, do that.

They are nice cabs but the wei-ya monitor chassis and wei-ya PSU's are definite weak points.

 

[360heelflip]

Cheers for the help! Why would the sound be fine after turning the cab off, then back on?

 

[kernow]

Cheers for the help! Why would the sound be fine after turning the cab off, then back on?

Probably something to do with the caps holding a charge or something. Its definitely related to the PSU though, no question. Honestly, use a multimeter, you should own one if you have a cab anyway really.

 

[MKL]

Sound is still poo every time I turn the cab on and the red LED on the NEO MB flickers on and off.

That's a giveaway for a bad 12v line from the PSU: the LED uses 12v for the anode (and 5v for the cathode) and 12v is also what powers the audio power amplifier.

 

[360heelflip]

That's a giveaway for a bad 12v line from the PSU: the LED uses 12v for the anode (and 5v for the cathode) and 12v is also what powers the audio power amplifier.

What do I need to do to fix that?

 

[kernow]

What do I need to do to fix that?

He's basically saying the same thing I have. The +12 on your power supply is being flaky due to the stepdown, or the quality of the PSU itself. It might just be set too low.

get a multimeter and measure it to find out, that is the first step.

 

[360heelflip]

He's basically saying the same thing I have. The +12 on your power supply is being flaky due to the stepdown, or the quality of the PSU itself. It might just be set too low.

get a multimeter and measure it to find out, that is the first step.

Thanks guys. I'll get a multimeter and find out (I'll need info on how to do that). Sorry, this is new to me Didn't have any issues with my last Atomiswave... Thanks again for all the help, and future help I know I'll need with this

 

[360heelflip]

Tested and both are correct. The 12V does jump around at bit when the cab is first turned on, but stops on 12 and stays.

 

[kernow]

Tested and both are correct. The 12V does jump around at bit when the cab is first turned on, but stops on 12 and stays.

Are you testing under load? i.e with the 1 slot connected? It'll always drop when under load so if you don't have the board plugged in, measure it while its on with the board in and set it accordingly. Otherwise thats fine.

 

[360heelflip]

Are you testing under load? i.e with the 1 slot connected? It'll always drop when under load so if you don't have the board plugged in, measure it while its on with the board in and set it accordingly. Otherwise thats fine.

Yep, the 1 slot with Cart are connected to the Harness when I measured the volts.

 

[kernow]

So, after the initial warm up and when the 12V stabilizes, does the red LED stay on and the 1 slot is fully operational?

Otherwise the PSU might actually just be on its way out, I'd replace it or pull it and at least check for any loose capacitors (mine had one and when I resoldered it the 12V performance was a *little* better) - or try the 100V stepdown.

The PSU's are hard to find new, and even then they are terrible. Personally I'd get a wiring harness made with some compatible connectors for the cab side, and then wire up a standard JAMMA PSU in 110v mode, if you don't need 3.3V for JVS then this will be the best solution and I know for a fact the issues will vanish

 

[360heelflip]

I still have to flick the cab off then back on for the LED to stop flickering on both the PSU and the NEO 1 slot for the sound to be correct. I found the PSU's new and emailed about one, so I'll give that ago first. Still may try that Transformer as well in one of my previous posts.

Thanks for your help mate! I'm leaving for Finland in a few hours, and will be away for a little over a month. I'll have to sort it all out once I'm back in Australia.

 

[grantspain]

its the tranformer causing this,120vac is too high for the wei ya psu-100vac is the correct rating

 

[360heelflip]

cool, I'll get a new one when I'm back in Australia.