Blast City Club

[Westcb]

15khz is a little dim on the blast city normally, but it may be something related to the settings, or with needing caps replaced. Hard to know without troubleshooting in person. Are you certain that it’s not MS-2932-S (hi res only)?

The convergence is a common issue with these monitors, some have had success with adding magnetic strips between the yoke and tube, others live with it. How much does the cab cost?

I had great success with convergence strips on my cabs. I bought the premade ones for like 7 bucks my buddy made his own using a video off YouTube and his turned out great too.


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[Stellarola]

Hello!

I am about to buy a Blast City, and got some pictures about its condition.
Could you experienced users please advise if this unit is worth it or not?

Monitor is supposed to be a MS2931-S
The screen has a 2 minor setbacks, it has misaligned red color in the upper right corner and it is not fully bright in 15Khz mode. 31 and 15 Khz have separate circuits so the brightness does not affect the 15Khz.

The Marquee is in perfect condition, no damage inside the marquee, no damage in the exterior plexi. It has been cleaned and looks amazing.

Here are some shots in-game and there is no way to notice.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/r70b4628lvl92nz/AABbFPU_F7WCzz0nQEIdMIoka?dl=0

Could you please let me know if this is worth it, I worry about the 15khz though mostly I will be using for 31khz only (I just would like to have everything OK).

Not sure how difficult is to solve these issues?

Thanks!!

That corner convergence is not nearly as bad as some that I have fixed in the past with convergence tabs (strips). I would say that cab looks pretty nice. He may want to be more specific about the dim 15khz.

 

[todosnk]

I had great success with convergence strips on my cabs. I bought the premade ones for like 7 bucks my buddy made his own using a video off YouTube and his turned out great too.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Thanks guys for the comments! The cab will take me 795 euro including shipping. Normally shipping for these cabs within Europe taxes around 250 euro, so I think its a good price.

To be honest I was a bit afraid as it looks dirty in the photos and wasn't really sure it its worth.

Could you please provide more information about these magnetic convergence strips and any video/tutorial on how to add these (or replace the caps). I am really newbie on all this and need to start from zero


I am not really 100% sure about the 2931-S. I think the guy probably did not know well where to look at. Just a guess due I would not know either!

 

[todosnk]

That corner convergence is not nearly as bad as some that I have fixed in the past with convergence tabs (strips). I would say that cab looks pretty nice. He may want to be more specific about the dim 15khz.

Great! Will check that too and post the news
Thanks a lot!!

 

[Chempop]

To be honest I was a bit afraid as it looks dirty in the photos and wasn't really sure it its worth.

I wouldn’t be too afraid of a little dirt, unless you are incapable of a little elbow grease. Candy cabs from japan generally wreak of shit and are covered in filth, but a few hours of cleaning will do wonders.

You might want to take a look at the guides on arcade otaku: http://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/w/Main_Page

I do see the “s” on the sticker, but the number is covered in soot

It does look like a auto-sync chassis because the test grid screen menu seems to look like it’s adjusted with digital controls. If the metal slug 5 pic is from a MVS cart, then it’s got to have a lot res option, but if it’s mame or something it might be a 31khz source.

 

[Stellarola]

I wouldn’t be too afraid of a little dirt, unless you are incapable of a little elbow grease. Candy cabs from japan generally wreak of shit and are covered in filth, but a few hours of cleaning will do wonders.

You might want to take a look at the guides on arcade otaku: http://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/w/Main_Page

I do see the “s” on the sticker, but the number is covered in soot

It does look like a auto-sync chassis because the test grid screen menu seems to look like it’s adjusted with digital controls. If the metal slug 5 pic is from a MVS cart, then it’s got to have a lot res option, but if it’s mame or something it might be a 31khz source.

Appears to be a 2930-S manual sync chassis running Metal Slug 6 at 31khz.

 

[cornerstone]

Is there a way to safely interrupt power to the power supply, and just run the monitor and another system from the outlet cord?

I can do that with the net city if I unhook a connector to the small PSU, and use that cord to directly power whatever is in there (Dreamcast, usually).

 

[todosnk]

Appears to be a 2930-S manual sync chassis running Metal Slug 6 at 31khz.

You're right , Metal Slug 6 pictures were taken at 31khz, here is the reply I received from him:

----
"Screens can be adjusted in 2 ways. The most common adjustments are done with the remote inside the CP : http://retrogamingstuff.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/toshiba_remote_board_top-modified1.jpg
Other adjustments can be done on the chassis (PCB) on the monitor itself.

The Metal Slug 6 pictures were taken in 31Khz. 15Khz is slightly darker.

The screen has been adjusted both inside the CP and on the chassis to get the best result. Sometimes different systems/game-pcb's force different settings so it can always happen that you need to adjust the CP remote.
I have discussed the 15Khz brightness and there is no guarantee that a fixed/new chassis would fix it.
Though in the end the cab is guaranteed to offer a bunch of retro goodness I played a couple of rounds of MS6 on it so I felt it

I have 2 Blasts with exactly the same 15Khz screen brightness, so if you prefer one over the other, just let me know.
I can always give a scratch a white marker once-over but that kind of aging for a 27 year old machine is normal. They don't call that part the kick plate for nothing "

----

Ok, so in the end, I was planning to plug a PC (which I am currently setting up with Hyperspin), so I assume I will be using 31khz only (PC set at 640x480)
I got two jamma boards (Final Fight and Golden Axe 2) that I would be plugging first into the Blast City to check its condition (at 15khz only I assume? can these jamma boards be plugged in 31khz mode?) and later on basically use the PC.

In such case, I guess the best choice will be to choose the Blast City that looks better? Since the two of them appear to have the same results at 15khz. Or is there anything else I should consider to take the best one?

I am not sure if the above help to determine the exact monitor. But maybe autosync is not that important since everything will to through the VGA plug with the PC?

Ah btw I realised this guy is from shadaloo in EU, so should be OK If anyone has had experience with this shop feedback is also welcome

Thanks again for all your help, really appreciate your advise
If I settle this I will be joining the club by the end of the year, looking forward to it!

 

[codecrank]

yeah 15khz is always darker than 31khz, 1/2 as many "lines" are lit up

so he sent you a link to the ms2930 remote board, therefore it's manual sync. Less circuitry that can fail IMHO.

if you have a choice of monitors, take the one with less burns. convergence can be fixed, burns cannot. easiest way to see burns is to display a solid white screen, just hookup a laptop via VGA.

shadaloo's profile on AO , http://forum.arcadeotaku.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=7750

 

[HDRchampion]

So im trying to use Seimitsu sticks on my Blast City panel. What mounting plate do you guys recommend? I just bought the Universal Kowal & doesn't seem to work with it without dremeling. Plus it seems like the shaft is a bit short too.

 

[Jonmkl]

So im trying to use Seimitsu sticks on my Blast City panel. What mounting plate do you guys recommend? I just bought the Universal Kowal & doesn't seem to work with it without dremeling. Plus it seems like the shaft is a bit short too.

I would also like information on this. I am a lover of Seimitsu sticks.

 

[Lemony Vengeance]

So im trying to use Seimitsu sticks on my Blast City panel. What mounting plate do you guys recommend? I just bought the Universal Kowal & doesn't seem to work with it without dremeling. Plus it seems like the shaft is a bit short too.

Which plate and stick? I have a bunch (doing a video) so I can test. It's a sanwa panel, right?

 

[codecrank]

Which plate and stick? I have a bunch (doing a video) so I can test. It's a sanwa panel, right?

that ^ and which panel ? HOT-2005 or sanwa/seimitsu repro ?

typically the problem with seimistu sticks is that they're meant for stud/flat mounting. I think the repro panels allow for the S plate though...

 

[HDRchampion]

Yeah the HOT-2005 panels. I believe the Seimitsu are the LS32.



These are Kowal "Universal" Mounting plates im trying to use with the Seimitsu.


My plan is to have a head 2 head, Player 1 Sanwa & Player 2 Seimitsu w/ each cab for different options.

 

[codecrank]

yeah thats the hot-2005. the stick looks like an ls40 though. IIRC you're not going to be able to properly mount any seimitsu sticks even by altering a plate. they're going to sit too low. if you like the small dead zone and stiffer feel, try out the larger actuator and stiffer spring in your JLF, you'll be surprised

the only options that I know of to properly mount a seimitsu sticks are
1) get a seimitsu sega plate ( discontinuted )

Spoiler:

2) get a plate with stud mounts , like jasenscustoms make ( you can use spacers to mount sanwa sticks on this too, thats what I do with my custom panels )

Spoiler:

 

[Fritz]

So im trying to use Seimitsu sticks on my Blast City panel. What mounting plate do you guys recommend? I just bought the Universal Kowal & doesn't seem to work with it without dremeling. Plus it seems like the shaft is a bit short too.

You can get a Seimitu LS-56 and use this mounting plate.

It will still be slightly lower by 1-2 mm, which you can easily fix with a very small washer. I am currently using the LS-56 on a sanwa blast city panel with the mounting plate/washer and have no complaints.

There is also the LS-55 and LS-58 but I am not sure if one of those is a bit longer, possibly the 55.

NOt sure how it would work, but you can also try a longer shaft.

 

[Chempop]

LS-56/58 on a sanwa panel all night long. I suppose if you have giant hands even a slightly shorter shaft might be bothersome (it is not a big difference regardless).

I don’t have any of those kowal universal plates but I did get the flat and “S” paradise ones that were based on them (stolen from?). I haven’t tried using them to mount a 32 on a sanwa panel. Depending on the if the mounting screws are on the left and right side, I can imagine the plate getting in the way of the light kick button. This doesn’t happen with the VF plate and the LS-55/56/58 so no fears there.

 

[codecrank]

hummm, I'm pretty sure I have an LS-56 in my shmup panel ( sanwa ) and I find it to sit too low, as in the balltop does sit against the center of my hand.

I'll check tonight.

 

[cornerstone]

Yeah I'm pretty sure I've got a 56 in my panel that sits low. I've come to prefer it for shooters

 

[HDRchampion]

Alright guys thanks, well thats bummer...The only reason why i wanted use the Seimitsu was because i had them in my 3button Astro City Panel that im not using. I was able to use the Kowal mounts & Seimitsu on my Atomiswave panel & does run a little low but still feels like it would still be playable.

 

[Reclaimer]

What's the "standard" height for a stick to be at anyway? I can feel if it's off, but anyone have a measurement?

 

[Chempop]

The seimitsu panel on the left with old style mounting plates for LS-32 measures about 2+1/16” from CP to top of ball, exactly the same height as a LS-56/58 mounted on a sanwa plate (pictured on right).

So stop complaining that it’s too short, maybe it’s stock JLF’s that are too high, BY A WHOLE 1/16”!!!!

 

[codecrank]

So stop complaining

I'm sorry, Dave. I'm afraid I can't do that.

 

[HDRchampion]

What i give for an extra 1/16" I guess i can always buy a longer shaft...

 

[ECZangief]

Kowal has S-plates.