Blast City Club

[NEgO MANIAC]

I have just one more to verify. I have a 680uf 10v in C923. The kit and Otaku is calling for a 2200uf 16v.

Also upset that my Hakko ate a solder pad on one of the caps. It was a really small one. The worst part is the nearest connect pad point is about 4 inches away so now I have a wire reconnecting it. Shouldn't be problem, just sucks that it happened.

 

[NERDtendo]

I have just one more to verify. I have a 680uf 10v in C923. The kit and Otaku is calling for a 2200uf 16v.

Also upset that my Hakko ate a solder pad on one of the caps. It was a really small one. The worst part is the nearest connect pad point is about 4 inches away so now I have a wire reconnecting it. Shouldn't be problem, just sucks that it happened.

Sorry. I was a little busy yesterday. Here you go.

 

[NEgO MANIAC]

Hmmm...so should I replace it with the 2200uf or leave a 680 in there? The cap kit supplier said it could have been a revision that called for the higher rated cap. Obviously it works in yours, but no way to tell if something else had to be changed to allow the 2200 cap to work.

 

[kuze]

Are you sure you have a 2931 and not a 2933 for example?

General rule of thumb is to replace what you have with the same kind, not what's in a cap kit/guide.

 

[Heinz]

I'm of the belief that a higher voltage rated capacitor is fine, it's simply the size that will be different.

 

[NEgO MANIAC]

I already check to make sure its a 2931. Looking at a pic of a 2933, some of the components on my board were different. Plus, all of the other caps (except the 2 I mentioned) were spot on. The monitor still had the 2931 sticker as well. I reassembled the monitor today and it was good.

 

[NEgO MANIAC]

Well, my success seems short lived. I think I have trouble with the control board for all of the harness inputs. I was getting a good picture after replugging all the connections several times, but now I only get a very quick, fuzzy image upon power-up. Then the monitor goes black. The game won’t play blind either (no sounds). I think the monitor is good because I had a good image earlier and it would have nothing to do with the sound. I’m wondering if the caps are bad. I washed the board about a week ago to clean it up. The whole cab was torn down and washed to clean up and get rid of the cigarette stench. Thoughts?

 

[kuze]

Well, my success seems short lived. I think I have trouble with the control board for all of the harness inputs. I was getting a good picture after replugging all the connections several times, but now I only get a very quick, fuzzy image upon power-up. Then the monitor goes black. The game won’t play blind either (no sounds). I think the monitor is good because I had a good image earlier and it would have nothing to do with the sound. I’m wondering if the caps are bad. I washed the board about a week ago to clean it up. The whole cab was torn down and washed to clean up and get rid of the cigarette stench. Thoughts?

It sounds like the Blast PSU may need a re-cap if you can't play blind / don't have sound.

 

[NEgO MANIAC]

I actually recapped it already and is verified good. I have another harness junction board that I am going to try out. I'm thinking I have corrosion on some of the pins, because I reseated everything again and it boots farther into the game before going blank. Its weird. The Capcom splash screen comes up a little fuzzy and then you see it get blurrier as the games continues to boot. Eventually the screen goes black. You can still feel (HV) the monitor is on and there is still neck glow.

 

[NEgO MANIAC]

Success!...then failure. Well, I figured out why my picture was fading out. It wasn't the junction board because I swapped in a another had the same results. So I swapped in another PSU and it came right up. I checked the voltage at the board and it was 5.5v, which I thought was high. So I put the other PSU back in and adjusted it from 5.25v to 5.48v and the picture came back. So with everything working, I let it run for 15 minutes before buttoning the cabinet back up. So here is the failure. When I was putting the black monitor shroud back on, I gave a good tap to the bottom of the shroud to engage the clips and the monitor went out. I checked for neck glow and it was gone. I haven't pulled the monitor yet, but I checked all of the connections to the chassis and they were in place. I only saw 2 fuses from the back and both were good and I also had 110v AC at the plug on the chassis. I must have jostled something banging the shroud on. Any thoughts? Is there a flowchart out there?

 

[NEgO MANIAC]

So I checked my caps again and everything was installed correctly. I did find a few broken solder pads so I fixed those. I also looked for any burnt components or damage...nothing. Didn't see any cold solder joints and reflowed the flyback just because. I still don't get any high voltage or neck glow. Certainly someone out there can help walk me through this. My Blast Cab is all back together and looks great. Just need the monitor working again.

 

[NEgO MANIAC]

Anyone? Is thre someone I can send this out to for repair?

 

[kuze]

Anyone? Is thre someone I can send this out to for repair?

There are some monitor experts on Arcade Otaku that may be able to point you in the right direction.

Hopefully the tube didn't get necked or it's game over for that monitor.

 

[NEgO MANIAC]

Tube is fine. The monitor just shut down after 15 minutes of use. I really just need some help with the trouble shooting what caused it to shut down.

 

[kuze]

Tube is fine. The monitor just shut down after 15 minutes of use. I really just need some help with the trouble shooting what caused it to shut down.

Sweet then yeah post about it in the AO monitor section and grantspain can probably help.

 

[skate323k137]

Bummer. I sent my 2933 into shutdown once with a bad sync signal. Leaving it unplugged for an hour and toggling between 15/31k "woke it back up" and it's been fine since.

Only thing that comes to mind for me is the infamous bipolar cap most chassis have. I haven't done a NANAO but did you run into one NP/BP (non polar, bipolar, same thing) cap in your kit?

 

[NEgO MANIAC]

It actually has 2 BP caps. They were part of the cap kit I installed.

I think I'm going to send it out for repair, but sharpimagerepair.com isn't responding to my messages.


Does anyone have a spare chassis they are willing to sell? Shipping would be to California, not Japan.

 

[radiantsvgun]

It actually has 2 BP caps. They were part of the cap kit I installed.

I think I'm going to send it out for repair, but sharpimagerepair.com isn't responding to my messages.


Does anyone have a spare chassis they are willing to sell? Shipping would be to California, not Japan.

You probably need to call them. Be warned they have a big backlog right now.

 

[Yoshi]

"Official" t-shirt of the club?

https://theyetee.com/products/mad-blastcity#

 

[NEgO MANIAC]

I know I read this somewhere, but wanted to confirm. Are the chassis' for the 2930 and 2931 interchangeable on each other tubes. I have two Blasts and wanted a spare chassis to cover both.

 

[kuze]

I know I read this somewhere, but wanted to confirm. Are the chassis' for the 2930 and 2931 interchangeable on each other tubes. I have two Blasts and wanted a spare chassis to cover both.

Yes they are.

 

[NEgO MANIAC]

An update on my chassis..

I sent the chassis out for repair and they replaced some components that wasn't allowing the tube to display a picture. I have the chassis back and the picture now comes up, but I get a lot of shaking of the image. After a few minutes, the image settles down, but I get a line of quivering at the top and bottom of the picture. I'm guessing the shaking picture is from the tube being cold and as it warms up, something is working properly...or at least better. The shaking only returns after turning the monitor off for an extended period of time. I can never get the quivering to stop. I also double checked my connections and tried putting in a new game to make sure it wasn't PCB related. Any ideas?

 

[Reclaimer]

Have you (gently!) made sure the neck board is pushed all the way in? That little guy gets loose and all sorts of weird stuff can happen.

 

[NEgO MANIAC]

I’ve reset everything several times with same results. I’m going to try it on another tube.

 

[NEgO MANIAC]

I've gotten my chassis back from being rebuilt and even picked up a spare a month ago. Everything has been going good until last night when the tube turned off. I checked the fuses (good) and voltage at the board (got 118VAC). I tried putting the spare chassis and got the same results. I am not getting any neck glow or any high voltage static. Did my tube die?