Games that dont work without -5v

Xavier

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I seen people asking this question alot and the answer is usually somthing like just a couple games like MK and NBA Jam. I think theres more games than that.
Heres a list of games that didnt work right on a neo-geo cab but do work ok on a standard jamma mono system with the -5v.

This list should be helpfull for people who havent moded there cab yet for mono and -5v and for people who get the small enclosed power supplies.

Mortal Kombat 3 no Sound may cause eprom erors in start up
Pit Fighter no sound
Rastan Saga no sound/glitches
Time Kilers sound vertical synch issue
Double Dragon 2 gr GLitches no sound
Raiden gr Glitches/sound
Gals Panic 2 no sound
Vball No sound
Double Dragon

Actually if you look theres a pattern, American made games and before mid 90's games.
 
Last edited:

ttooddddyy

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The lack of -5 vlots sould not cause gfx glitches, no sound yes, as it supplies the audio op-amps.
 

MottZilla

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I've primarily heard if you lack -5v some games sound hardware won't work. Alot of Midway games (Mortal Kombat, Killer Instinct, etc.) need -5v for the sound hardware and I've also heard CPS2 QSound (RCA jacks) needs it but regular Mono from the JAMMA harness doesn't. I don't think lacking -5v would cause a game not to work but it's possible I suppose. I think if you're concerned about it, or plan to play games you know require -5v or suspect they might you should use a better powersupply. I recommend using the easy to find PC ATX power supply. It's large but it will get the job done.
 

Monolith

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if you don't supply it and at the right amps Strata games including Time Killers will reboot over and over again.
 

Neo Alec

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Quick tip for beginners: Check pin 5 on both sides of the jamma edge connector. If the pins don't lead to anything, the board doesn't use -5v.

I recently added -5v to my supergun (as long as I was at it -- I was upgrading the power supply), but I temporarily disconnected it again when I realized that none of my boards use it.

Great idea for a thread. I was thinking of starting one of these myself, because I was wondering if I was ever going to need to reconnect that -5v line. It's nice to know I have the future capability if I need it, anyway.
 

Monolith

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Neo Alec said:
Quick tip for beginners: Check pin 5 on both sides of the jamma edge connector. If the pins don't lead to anything, the board doesn't use -5v.

I recently added -5v to my supergun (as long as I was at it -- I was upgrading the power supply), but I temporarily disconnected it again when I realized that none of my boards use it.

Great idea for a thread. I was thinking of starting one of these myself, because I was wondering if I was ever going to need to reconnect that -5v line. It's nice to know I have the future capability if I need it, anyway.

Sometimes on multi layer pcbs however in the middle layer the -5 volt line is carried,so you don't see it unless the pcb is thin enough to hold a light to and look through the top. This rarely ever happens,but it does and it sucks.
 

dark penguin

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So I checked the pinouts for a bunch of jamma PCBS that I want, and some don't use the -5v, like Final Fight.
I'm wondering whether I can just plug and play some of these in my MV4F cab without too much of a problem?
Even with the PCB lacking the -5v, will there still be issues...I'm guessing
the stereo vs mono issue may still cause some problems?

Can anyone who has tried jamma PCBS that don't have the -5v lend some insight?

I've seen the -5v rewire project on hardmvs, but if the PCBs I want don't bother with the -5v to begin with, I won't need to bother with this, right?
 

68k

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I can confirm this with my Ultimate MK3 board. I get jacked up sound and rolling video.

Any idea how I can get -5V with a supergun/SC200 setup?
 

Xian Xi

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68k said:
I can confirm this with my Ultimate MK3 board. I get jacked up sound and rolling video.

Any idea how I can get -5V with a supergun/SC200 setup?

The rolling video is from the vertical sync off the MK3 board which is 56khz and not 60khz and the sound is from the lack of -5v.

Is the SC200 just dual voltage switching?
 

dark penguin

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OK, so I finally got my hands on a Final Fight PCB. I am happy to report it works beautifully in my MV4F cab without any rewiring done. No sound glitches whatsoever, which is what I was worried about. Well, none that I can tell anyway, and I was scrolling through the sound test in the test mode.

One thing I'm a little confused about though...where the hell is the volume adjustment on a CPS1 boardset?? This thing sounds great, but it's set to arcade-level volume. :D
 

Neo Alec

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dark penguin said:
One thing I'm a little confused about though...where the hell is the volume adjustment on a CPS1 boardset?? This thing sounds great, but it's set to arcade-level volume. :D
There should be a volume knob on the board.
 

Xavier

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Huh guess it wont let you edit your post after a month or something.
Another game I found not working without -5v Bloodstorm, the sequal to time killers.
 

dark penguin

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Neo Alec said:
There should be a volume knob on the board.

You'll have to excuse my ignorance with CPS-1 stuff, I'm not very familiar with these boardsets. I was guessing that it's the white dial on the bottom board sitting about an inch above the battery, labelled VRI...looks like it would take a philips head screwdriver. I read through the manual on the web, and it didn't say how to troubleshoot the volume level...I guess they figured arcade ops or techs would already know what the knob or switch looked like.

Er..sorry to derail this thread:D
 

channelmaniac

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dark penguin said:
You'll have to excuse my ignorance with CPS-1 stuff, I'm not very familiar with these boardsets. I was guessing that it's the white dial on the bottom board sitting about an inch above the battery, labelled VRI...looks like it would take a philips head screwdriver. I read through the manual on the web, and it didn't say how to troubleshoot the volume level...I guess they figured arcade ops or techs would already know what the knob or switch looked like.

Er..sorry to derail this thread:D


Yup! That's it.

VR1 = Variable Resistor 1

You can turn it with your fingers too.

RJ
 

dark penguin

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channelmaniac said:
Yup! That's it.

VR1 = Variable Resistor 1

You can turn it with your fingers too.

RJ


Hey, thanks! I appreciate that. I'm going to adjust that today.
 

Doc

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Not sure if anyone cares, but Leland's ATAXX requires-5v to even boot. FYI:)
 

Xavier

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Ataxx isnt even a jamma game... or anything remotely close most of these leland cinematronics had some weird pinouts.

Are you using a dedicated cab or did you make a converter for it. Id be interested to see what the converter looks like.
 

Xavier

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Ataxx is a jamma game, with the proper adapter !

Turtleship no sound wo/-5v
Classic Konami games need -5v for sound
 

Pas

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Toki is another that needs -5v for sound...plays fine but you can barely make out audio as there is no amplification.
 

astrodan88

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if you don't supply it and at the right amps Strata games including Time Killers will reboot over and over again.

I am wondering if anyone has any info on the amps issue. Is the "correct" amps a factor with other games mentioned?
 

Xian Xi

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The board pulls what it needs. You just have to AT LEAST have the minimum required.
 
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