You don't. There is a separate harness for those in the cab called "S". What you have there does buttons 1-5. E2 is wired for jamma+
You don't. There is a separate harness for those in the cab called "S". What you have there does buttons 1-5. E2 is wired for jamma+
That makes more sense. Now I need to find button 5 on the harness and a ground.
http://www.atlantalightbulbs.com/li...luorescent-linear-t12-under-48-inch/fl20sd-b/
The bulbs model number is FL20SD-B 20W T10 23.25 Inch, 580mm. Not sure why they have two measurements, I assume the base is 580mm, but total length is 23.25.
I finally received this bulb and luckily it works. It is just a tad shorter than the stock Egret 2 Bulb, but it fits even better. The bulb wasn't cheap, but the color temperature of the bulb is 6500k. Not only are length,diameter,and wattage important for the bulb replacement, the temperature of the bulb can greatly impact how well your marque lights up. I went with this one since almost all other T10 size bulbs in the 580mm range were 4000ish kelvin.
Just thought I would share this in case anyone needs a bulb replacement on the Egret II and can't source one locally.
View attachment 42808
you can get all 6 buttons through the CP looms. Pins 10 and 11 are for buttons 5 and 6, respectively.
do you guys recommend a crimper? The one I have leaves a lot to be desired.
So I am wanting to remove this Chinese step up converter from my cabinet. Any ideas on how to safely remove it?
I sent you a DM (IG) just now. Pretty sure its just those two hot wires needing to be rerouted.
Does anyone have a recommendation for keeping an Egret II's bezel in place without the screws if you plan on rotating the monitor? It's not like I plan to rotate a lot, but those screws are such a pain in the ass, at least on mine they are, that I never rotate it.
Does anyone have a recommendation for keeping an Egret II's bezel in place without the screws if you plan on rotating the monitor? It's not like I plan to rotate a lot, but those screws are such a pain in the ass, at least on mine they are, that I never rotate it.
I leave mine out. I think I lost those screws in the several times I’ve moved with the cab. I just pop the bezel in and go.
Meant to post this one. Awhile back I took all the nicest original components from my gang of Egrets and put this together. This one lives upstairs, while the rest are down in the arcade. Marquee is intentionally left off this one as it conflicts with the wall art.
I've also since obtained some dead stock coasters for the front just need to put them on.
Meant to post this one. Awhile back I took all the nicest original components from my gang of Egrets and put this together. This one lives upstairs, while the rest are down in the arcade. Marquee is intentionally left off this one as it conflicts with the wall art.
I've also since obtained some dead stock coasters for the front just need to put them on.
Haha, I used to do this all the time. Recently did this to my friends cab and forgot to tell him. He was in for a nasty surprise the next time he tried to rotate (aka he almost dropped the bezel).
Get the thumb screws. They're the same ones as you use on a PC case. Mike Mann even sourced some nice anodized pink ones. I use 2 in every one of my birds.
Haha, I used to do this all the time. Recently did this to my friends cab and forgot to tell him. He was in for a nasty surprise the next time he tried to rotate (aka he almost dropped the bezel).
Get the thumb screws. They're the same ones as you use on a PC case. Mike Mann even sourced some nice anodized pink ones. I use 2 in every one of my birds.
I'll look into those, but mine sits hard in there, I have to pop it out. Is there a certain size or just search thumb screws pc?
Also, big thanks to jcmorris, I got the transformer out of there, got the E2 looking super nice now. I've never had to solder inside a cab before, but I was able to do it. The only thing I want to do to the cab now is find a place that will professionally repaint it. But first I need to find some repro stickers and sideart.